Departure from Vina del Mar

Our time in Vina del Mar is coming to an end. We leave tomorrow for our cruise to San Diego on the Holland America ship Amsterdam. Although we are looking forward to 18 days of cruising, we are sorry to leave our condo in Vina. It has been a wonderful stay. I am writing this while looking out the window at another sunset over the bay of Valparaiso. Beautiful!

Today we had another tour with Juanita from Genercia Cultourachile. Our tour was of Valparaiso. This city is quite a contrast to Vina – its twin to the north. Valparaiso is gritty with wide contrasts. The city is perched on steep hills above the narrow band of flatland along the waterfront. Many funiculars have moved people up and down their hillside neighborhoods for many years. Unfortunately many of these “people-movers” have stopped operation – either through neglect or destruction due to questionable “progress.” Juanita is very knowledgeable about the City – she took us to the many ethnic neighborhoods with their colorful palettes of house colors.

The highlight was a tour of Pablo Neruda’s hillside home. Neruda was the Nobel Prize winning Chilean poet. He led a fascinating life as a poet, diplomat, ambassador, and politician. We visited Neruda’s home in Isla Negra in 2006 – it was interesting to see the similar interiors with his eclectic collections. Even though the homes are totally different in design, they have similarities. The Isla Negra home is set along the coast – basically on one level. The Valparaiso home is vertical – with many narrow stairways. Views of the bay were from every room. The views of the water tie the two together along with the interesting Neruda collections that were displayed in each home.

Our late lunch today was a return visit to the Austrian restaurant in Vina – I had to have more goulash soup! Now it is time to pack – my least favorite activity but at least we have no more flights and when we return to San Diego we only have a 10 minute taxi ride to home!

Vina del Mar, Chile

Hello from Vina del Mar, Chile. We flew from Buenos Aires to Santiago last Thursday morning. Reba and Imre Quastler were there to greet us along with Victor Hugo. No – not the ghost of the French writer – our van driver Victor Hugo was taking us to Vina! He was an English school teacher who had changed to being a tour guide. Victor was more than a van driver – he gave us a running commentary on the sites along the way. In Vina, he took us to his favorite restaurant for lunch – before we went to our condo.

The restaurant turned out to be one of our favorites from our stay in Vina in 2006. The restaurant, Delicias del Mar, specializes in fish – of course. The owner is also a Marilyn Monroe fanatic! There are pictures, figurines, and all sorts of Marilyn memorabilia. The crab lasagna was also EXCELLENT! Chile has some of the best king crab in the world. Having tried both Alaskan and Chilean, I would have to vote for Chile – sorry Governor Pallin!!!

View from the Bedroom

After a great lunch, we drove to our “condo home” for the next week. When we saw our “digs,” I think our jaws all dropped to the floor. This is the nicest rental we have ever had from Vacation Rentals by Owner - http://www.vrbo.com/. The unit is on the 19th floor with stunning views of the city, ocean, and coastline. There are four bedrooms and three and a half baths. The kitchen is modern and large compared to others we have had, complete with dishwasher, washer/dryer, microwave, convection oven, and a large refrigerator/freezer. Talk about being spoiled. The condo is also within easy walking distance of many restaurants – and Bravissimo – the best gelateria this side of Italy!

A few days after arriving, we got an email from Jennifer Wilson, our Travel Agent extraordinaire at Sunshine Travel in Palm Desert, telling us that Holland America had upgraded all of us to Deluxe Verandah Suites on the Navigation Deck. They must have known that after our condo in Vina del Mar that a Deluxe Suite was required!!!

On Day 1 in Vina, we got a late start and only headed out in time for our main meal in the early afternoon. We went to an Austrian restaurant – Austriaco – yes Austrian in Vina del Mar! Chile has some local cuisine traditions but their food seems to be more a mixture of cooking styles from around the world. There are immigrants from all parts of Europe. The chef of the restaurant greeted us in excellent English and he checked on us frequently. We had a fabulous meal – the best wienerschnitzel I have had since being an exchange student in Austria in 1964. Antje and Georg gave it high marks for authenticity – high praise from German born Americans!!

Day 2 was a trip to Estancia El Cuadro – a vineyard in the Casablanca Valley a short distance from Vina. We were picked up by our guide Juanita from Genercia Cultourachile – based in Valparaiso. This is a tour company specializing in cultural tourism. Juanita is a pediatrician who works part of the week in her practice and the rest of the week with her tour company. She was a very interesting woman and more than willing to discuss anything that interested us. Juanita discussed the times of the Pinochet government candidly.

The New Grape Picker

El Cuadro is a recently developed facility that primarily caters to tourists – the vineyard has many varieties but they specialize in Chardonnay, Carmenere, Cabernet Sauvignon and blends.

The Carmenere grape has an interesting story. It was thought that the grape was lost to wine history - due to the phlox plague in France (and in much of the rest of the world) in the 19th century. Later it was discovered that the Carmenere grape had been combined with the Merlot grape in Chile. Chile is isolated from other areas – it has the Andes to the east, the driest desert on earth to the north, and the glaciers of Patagonia to the south. As a result, their agricultural areas have been immune to these world- wide agricultural diseases. They were eventually able to separate the Carmenere vine from the Merlot and to make this unique wine. The Chileans are good wine salesmen – they are proud of the fact that their vines are “pure” and not grafted onto other stock so that the root that goes down in the soil is the “real thing!”

We started our tour with a wagon ride around the property with a great guide. Josefina not only had a great personality and a great command of English, but she shared with us an obvious love for wine. She really knew her topic!

After the ride, we went into a large room with huge oak vats to sample the wines. Another employee – Andres – guided us through the process with exacting instructions on how to look at the color, smell the bouquet, and taste the wine – letting it swirl in the mouth so all the taste buds can enjoy the taste! The next stop was the wine museum that had led us through dioramas of the wine making process in the early days of Chile. We then went onto a lovely patio where we sampled pisco sours – the national drink of Chile (actually it originated in Peru). Pisco is a distilled grape product that is “fiery.” It is combined with sugar, lemon or lime juice, and a small amount of whipped egg white. Elisabeth had a Chardonnay Sour, a modern version of the traditional drink. We were serenaded by a Chilean musical group which was similar to a Mexican mariachi band. A Chilean “rodeo” was next. They demonstrated the horse skills of the huaso – the Chilean cowboy – their version of the Argentine gaucho.

Next came empanadas on the patio and then lunch in the dining room. The food was excellent – especially a desert of peaches, dried peaches, and barley. I know – it sounds strange but I assure you it was delicious! Our day at El Cuadro was wonderful, the weather was warm and dry, the wine excellent, and our hosts personable and welcoming.

Buenos Aires This and That and Other Ramblings

Well this is our last day in Buenos Aires. We leave for Santiago in the morning and then on to Vina del Mar for a week before the cruise to San Diego. Buenos Aires is a wonderful city – with many things to do that could keep you busy for months. We feel we know it better and would recommend a stay here to anyone with a sense of adventure.

Some of the things we have done I have not mentioned so far in these blog entries. The museums are great and most are free. We visited the old Palais de Glace – yes the French word for ice skating rink. It is now an art museum with some very strange art! At a distance, the art looked like textured cloth. Up close it was small plastic baby dolls strung together with string – some were blue, white, pink, etc. Very odd!

The National Museum of Bellas Artes houses a large collection of 19th and 20th century Argentine art. The ground floor has a very good collection of European art – spanning several centuries. There were many sculptures by Rodin. Artists included Diego Rivera, Picasso, Manet, Monet, Renoir, Degas, Gaugin, Sisley, and other impressionists from Italy, Spain, etc.

The Malba Museum is housed in a strikingly modern structure in Palermo. We also ate lunch in their excellent restaurant which we highly recommend. This museum houses the collection – or at least part of the collection – of Eduardo Constantini, a Buenos Aires developer and entrepreneur. The collection is said to be the largest, most diverse, and most valuable collection of 19th and 20th century Latin American art in the world. There are many paintings by Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo, and Lygia Clark….yes…Clark!. She was a Brazilian born artist – must be the Portuguese branch of the family!

The Museo de Arte Decorative is housed in a beautiful French style house once owned by the Alvear Family. The art is interesting but it is the house that is the real attraction. If you did not know you were in Buenos Aires, you would think you were in Paris. We also enjoyed a late afternoon coffee and snack in their outdoor tea room.

There is a lot of public art in Buenos Aires - from the monumental columns and statues to modern pieces like the Floralis Generica. This giant aluminum flower opens and closes with the sun!

We also visited the Evita Museum – which was very well done. The exhibits all have English translations and several films have English and Spanish descriptions above the news footage. Eva Peron is loved by many and hated by just as many. She was an intriguing woman who did a lot for Argentina – no matter what her motives might have been. The vote for woman and many social reforms were attributed to her. Some claimed that her Eva Peron Foundation was a way of funneling government money into Swiss bank accounts. Other experts refute this claim. Who knows? She is certainly an intriguing woman – made even more famous by Andrew Lloyd Weber and Tim Rice. Some claim she was just ahead of her time – people now accept movie actors in political roles! Ah…the cult of celebrity! We also tried their restaurant for an afternoon snack…do you see a pattern here? We also visited Eva Duarte Peron's grave in Recoleta - the story of how her body was secretly moved to Italy and then back to Argentina is a mystery story in itself.

Evita's Grave in Recoleta Cemetery

The Japanese Garden in Buenos Aires is claimed to be the largest outside of Japan. It was donated by the Japanese community in Argentina. Yes...we stopped for a drink and ice cream!

Buenos Aires is also a place for shopping, shopping, shopping. With the value of the dollar high (yes there is a place where the dollar goes far), there are many bargains. Avenida Florida is a pedestrian street in the Micro-Center with shop after shop.

When in Buenos Aires, always look down! Why – the sidewalks are terrible – must not be many lawyers here…lots of “trip and fall” cases if this was the US – spoken like a true retired City Manager!!

Taxis are so cheap – we used them constantly. Buses cost about 35 cents but when we tried to figure out how to use them we gave up. You have to know where you are getting off and the driver then tells you the amount. You must have the exact change. Most rides are one pesos 10 centavos. But…change is horded in Argentina and it is hard to get it. The subway is 17 cents but it does not come near Recoleta. So…taxis for us. From here to the main downtown area – about a 10 minute ride – cost about $3 US.

The dog walker! Yes there are 10 here!

Have to count the legs below the big dogs...

and divide by 4 and don't forget

the one in his arms!

Buenos Aires is a city of dogs! They are everywhere. Dog walking is a big business. Today we saw a walker with 10 dogs and he was carrying a puppy across the street with him. They are all so well-behaved. Have not seen a fight or much barking either! Cats are not around much except in Recoleta Cemetery and the one in church – of course.

We usually do a lot of cooking when we rent an apartment – but this time we ate out more. Why? It is so inexpensive. We tended to eat our main meal at lunch and then have a snack in the evening. Of course, breakfast was here at the apartment.

Well…that is it for fabulous Buenos Aires – staye tuned for reports from Vina del Mar, Chile!

Tigre and the Parana Delta

On Monday March 23 we took a day excursion to the city of Tigre (named for the jaguars that were hunted here in the past) and the Delta of the Parana River. This area is so close to Buenos Aires but so far in terms of scenery and surroundings. The Delta of the Parana forms hundreds of small islands and is crisscrossed with tributaries and wetlands. Homes have been built along the waterways usually raised above the flood stage. Every home seemed to have its own dock – we were to learn why later on the trip into the Delta.

The journey started with a taxi ride from the apartment to the Tren de la Costa station at Libertador in Olivos. Although you can take a train from the main station in Buenos Aires and change to the Coastal Train, we decided it would be faster to take the cab. Although it was a long ride, the cost was only $9US so split between two couples it was inexpensive.

The Coastal Train travels through the exclusive neighborhoods of Buenos Aires along the Rio de Plata. The British built most of the railroads in Argentina in the 19th century which were nationalized by Juan Peron in 1948. The Coastal Train is really more like an above-ground subway line – with cars that remind me of the Metro in Paris. There are several interesting stops along the way but we did not have time to enjoy them – maybe next trip.

One of the locals on the boat - no - maybe a tourist?

Restaurante Gato Blanco Dock with a local "bus" on the river.

We read about a restaurant out in the Delta called the Gato Blanco (White Cat) that we wanted to try. Getting to the “Gato” was the best part of the day, requiring traveling by boat with the locals. What a great experience! In 2006, we had taken an excursion boat around the Delta with other tourists. This boat was local transportation for the residents. Some were on their way to or from Tigre with their shopping. Some children got on and were doing their homework as we sailed the river. The only tourists were the few going to the Gato Blanco. The boat stopped along the channels of the river to drop people off and pick up new riders. People would just come out on their dock and the captain seemed to know where people needed to be dropped and where to stop and pick up a new passenger. These “bus” riders had to be nimble – the captain would back the ship up to the dock’s staircase that extended into the water – the rider would then hop on or hop off while the engine raced. Fortunately, the captain gave the “Turistas” more time.

The canals and tributaries were busy with boats – some were floating grocery stores. We noticed items delivered to homes sitting on the docks – a bag of onions, water, fuel, etc. There were a few small shops and gas stations along the way as well as hotels and recreation sites. Many residents sat on their lawns or docks watching the world go by – what a complete contrasts with the hustle and bustle of Buenos Aires! Although there are permanent Delta residents, we understand that many of the homes are for weekends and summer vacations for people from Buenos Aires. Considering the temperatures we have had in their “September,” we understand why the Delta is an attraction in summer.

Those lazy days of river life at Gato Blanco.

When we arrived at the Gato Blanco in about an hour, we were greeted by a….gato blanco! The restaurant was full – how could that be – there were only a few people on the boat? There was a large tour group that had come with their own boats. Fortunately they left shortly after we arrived. We were seated on the patio/deck under an umbrella, facing the river and a side tributary. The food was good – except for the new local “fish” Elisabeth decided to try. It was the first fish she ever disliked – I agree with her – it tasted liked the mud of the river! I rescued her with the chicken from my mixed grill brochette – that was huge!

We left on the 4pm boat that arrived at Gato Blanco at 4:30pm! The ride back to Tigre was another adventure – with a boat that was even more crowded with locals than the one coming out. So – back to the Coastal Train and then by taxi to the apartment. What a great adventure!!!

Back to civilization - or is it?

March 21 - Elisabeth's Birtday

Saturday March 21 was Elisabeth’s birthday! I am now younger again!!! :) Our day was quiet but we did celebrate for lunch with Georg and Antje at the Restaurant Munich. Yes – Munich – but I cannot reproduce how they pronounce it in Buenos Aires!! This restaurant has been in Buenos Aires for many years. Entering Munich is like walking into a bistro in Paris – in fact it reminded me of Balzar on the Rue des Ecoles in the 5th arrondisement in Pairs. Even the waiters are interchangeable! The difference – the absolute best steak I have EVER eaten. Their creamed spinach is also fabulous. The steak was a chateaubriand – cooked perfectly – red in the middle and juicy! All for less than $15 – yes BA is inexpensive. 442 out of 444 on the most expensive cities in the WORLD! I’ve got to find 443 and 444 – or maybe I do not want to know??? Check out the before and after pictures!!

Since it was Saturday we walked around the weekend craft market near the Recoleta Cemetery and then rested at home until the evening. We then went to the Café Tortoni for their Tango Show. Café Tortoni is a Buenos Aires institution – now a bit of a tourist attraction. Café Tortoni is to Buenos Aires what Les Deux Maggots and Café Flor are to Paris. Anyone and everyone in Argentine history and literary society made this their “home.” The reason it is so French is that it was established by an immigrant from France in 1858 who named it after his favorite café on the Boulevard des Italiens in Paris.

We had been to a Las Vegas style Tango Show in Buenos Aries in 2006 so this time we were looking for something a little more authentic. We found it. The room only held 60+ people and we were at a table in the second row from the stage in the middle – only three tables wide in the room. A Tango Show is somewhat of a misnomer. They include singing, music, and dancing. In fact, a whole show of nothing but Tango would probably drive me crazy. I love the mix. The singer was obviously someone known to the residents. Many locals were in the audience and sang along when prompted. I watched one young woman – lip synch every word of the songs. The singer, Carlos Rossi, was excellent. The band was incredible – especially the pianist and the bandoneón player. This instrument is from the concertina family and differs from the accordion.

We had a great day and evening!!!

Colonia Sacramento Uruguay

Our stay in Buenos Aires is coming to an end in two days so I better catch up on more of our adventures.

Last Friday we went to Colonia Sacramento, Uruguay, the oldest city in the country. (Old City Gate above). The historic quarter is a World Heritage site designated by UNESCO. The city was founded by the Portuguese in 1680 and the city has changed between the Spanish and Portuguese 9 times between then and 1821. Colonia was under Brazil from 1821 to 1828 when Uruguay became independent. As a result, the city is a mixture of architectural styles. It is a very charming place!

Our trip to Colonia from Buenos Aires was on a hydrofoil that took about an hour to cross the Rio de Plata. The River has the widest estuary in the world – ranging from 30 to 130 miles in width. The river is only 180 miles long – it is formed by two rivers – the Parana and the Uruguay River. The Parana drains 1/5 of South America. In Spanish, it means River of Silver but it is more like the River of Brown! Actually, the word Plata was not used to describe the river’s color but the riches of silver thought to be upstream. There is so much silt in the Rio de Plata that there is constant dredging to keep the port of Buenos Aires open.

The hydrofoil was very comfortable and included snacks like being on an airplane with flight attendants. We had first class seats since the tourist class was sold out – and since it was only a few dollars more – why not?

When we arrived in Colonia we found an open air shuttle to take us out of the port (more like an overgrown golf cart). From here we walked to the Tourist Office. Our friends from Poway, Bob and Linda Thomas, had been here earlier this year. They recommended going to the Tourist Office and finding a guide. What a good recommendation! We ended up with the same guide they had. As Linda said, “The guide was a spitfire!” Excellent description! We were taken on a walking tour of the old quarter before going by van to sites outside the City.

The old quarter is fabulous. There are many shops, restaurants, and hotels along with quiet squares, old houses, the Church of the Holy Sacrament, etc. When walking through the city, we found residents sitting in front of their houses sipping their mate, dogs sleeping in the shade, and charm around every corner.

Our guide recommended we eat at El Mesón de la Plaza – and it turned out to be a wonderful choice. (See pictures below.) We sat in the garden and had a great meal while listening to a guitarist/singer. We even bought his CD – something we rarely do! This leisurely lunch lasted until mid-afternoon just in time for shopping and going back to the hydrofoil. Our guide even came back to pick us up and take us to the port.

This is a great one day excursion for anyone staying in Buenos Aires. Highly recommended!

Our Buenos Aires Apartment

It is about time I told you more about our “digs” in Buenos Aires. Our apartment is great. We are – near the corner of Vincente Lopez and Azcuenaga in the Recoleta District of Buenos Aires. We are on an upper floor – accessed by a classic old elevator that reminds us of being in an older building in Paris. It has real charm. It never stops exactly with the floor level – it stops and starts with a jerk and you have to pull shut two sliding doors before the elevator will work.

The apartment is modern (with WIFI) – one bedroom plus a Murphy Bed in the living room. The kitchen has a good sized refrigerator/freezer, stove with oven, and a microwave/toaster combination. Yes you read that right. Microwave/toaster! Actually it is a great idea for saving space - must look for one when we get home. It is perfect for high rise condo living in San Diego!

View from the Bedroom!

The best part of the apartment is the view – or I should say the views! All rooms – including the bathroom have incredible views of the Recoleta Cemetery – one of the most interesting sites in Buenos Aires. We can see the Rio de Plata – vaguely – in the distance. You can take a shower and look at the view. You can sit in the living room and look at the view. You can sit on the balcony and look at the view. You can lie in bed and look at the view. You can even sit on the toilet and look at the view!!! Absolutely wonderful – and with all the windows we have there are very nice breezes and cross ventilation.

Downstairs and two doors away is a market – not huge – but big enough for our needs. Larger markets are a few blocks away. Two blocks away is Recoleta Village – a very large cinema complex with restaurants on the front with sidewalk cafes. We have had drinks here in the evening listening to the sidewalk guitarist. The Cemetery entrance is a short walk from the apartment and the Basilica where we encountered the religious cat last Sunday is next to the Cemetery! There are other restaurants along a sidewalk near the Cemetery that are great people watching sites. La Biela – a famous Buenos Aires landmark – is in the area. The outdoor café is under a giant gum tree that is more than two hundred years old. We are also in walking distance of museums, the Rodeo Drive of Buenos Aires, and many excellent restaurants and shops.

Over 200 years old - THE TREE that is!!!

So how did we find this gem? On Vacation Rentals by Owner, of course! We have used this site for apartments in France, Italy, Argentina, and Chile. We have never been disappointed. This apartment is one of the best due to the owners - Valerie Watkins and Jim Millerick who live in Miami. They have been so helpful and accommodating. Their local manager, Frank, is an American who has lived here 5 years. He is very helpful and gave us a long list of his favorite restaurants. Valerie and Jim also own the apartment next door where our friends from Escondido, Antje and Georg Funke, are staying. Their apartment has been redecorated more recently and has some features that are better but their views are not as spectacular. The apartments can be found on VRBO at http://www.vrbo.com/59534 but be sure to click on the link toward the bottom of the page for Website with additional pictures and more information. We can recommend these apartments to anyone interested in a true Buenos Aires experience.

One note of warning – Buenos Aires is considered the 4th noisiest city in the world according to a World Health Organization study. They are right! Fortunately the apartment has air conditioning if it gets too noisy at night. The Portenos (resident of Buenos Aires) do not get started until very late and on the weekends they are still in the café below us at 4am!!! We are now sleeping well but it took some getting used to. One thing that helps is to follow their lifestyle – well – almost. We find ourselves staying up very late and getting up late – oh well – we ARE on vacation!