Netherlands – The First Week

Decided I should write something after being here a week. We have been busy everyday but today we are taking it easy – rain this morning and we’ll be packing this afternoon.  Had lunch at a canal-side restaurant in Hoogmade about 2 miles from our rental.  Excellent lunch in a beautiful setting.  The village is the birthplace of the mother of a colleague from my Escondido days.

We leave in the morning to return the car in Rotterdam – then a taxi to the Cruise Terminal to board Holland America’s Rotterdam.  The cruise is my 70^th birthday celebration a little late! We both have wanted to take the North Atlantic crossing for some time so my birthday was the excuse!  

We arrived at Schiphol Airport on Friday morning July 7 an hour early.  Found the car rental and we were on the road by 11am.  Thanks to our WAZE app we programmed it to a grocery store in a village near our apartment rental.  Thank goodness for pictures on products – our Dutch is non-existent.  We have found that almost everyone speaks English and are very friendly and helpful when we have a question.

View from our rental

With jetlag in full swing, we stayed close to home on Saturday, visiting the large Saturday Market in Leiden.  Amazing!  Huge!  Crowded! Every kind of food imaginable.  We ate on a barge on the main canal – the old Rhine River. The waiter described the menu as Dutch “tapas.”  After a stroll around the market and shopping for dinner and breakfast it was back to the apartment.

On Sunday July 9, we went to church in Leiden on a beautiful day – full sun and blue sky.  It was back to the same restaurant for lunch and then a stroll around the city, ending with a canal boat tour. Leiden is a beautiful city.

Monday July 10 it was off to Delft with stops in the old town for the Old and New Churches, lunch on the main square, and finally a stop out of town at the Royal Delft Porcelain Factory.  Beautiful and quaint Dutch city.

City Hall to left in main square of Delft

Royal Delft Porcelain

Tuesday was a long drive to the Kroller-Muller Museum in the Hoge Veluwe National Park. The Museum has fabulous 19^th and 20^th century art, including the second largest collection of Van Goghs. 

July 12 was a trip to the Aalsmeer Flower Auction near Schiphol Airport.  Being a rainy day, it was a good option for an indoor activity.  We were here about 10 years ago and there are changes.  At that time, there were 6 Auction Rooms, but today there are only 2 due to Internet bidding. Watching the ballet of flower trucks from the walkway above is fascinating. More flowers in one place than you will ever see!  We then drove to Edam, north of Amsterdam for a stroll around the “cheese” city, a look at the church, and lunch in a local restaurant.

Edam

July 13 was a return visit to the Windmills of Kinderdijk.  We were there 40 years ago when Philip was 4 months old after his first visit to see his French grandparents. It was then on to Gouda – another cheese city for lunch and a look around the old town.  As in Edam, we were there in the afternoon of the cheese market.  Earlier in the day, the city would have been crowded with tourists. 

City Hall in Gouda

Today, July 14, was a day of rest. 

Time to pack for the morning trip to Rotterdam and to the ship for the start or the second part of our adventure!   

The Latest Adventure

July 6 to August 2

July 15 to August 2 Cruise

Tomorrow morning starts the latest adventure. We fly to the Netherlands where we will spend eight nights before boarding the Holland American ship Rotterdam for the North Atlantic crossing. Although we have made several Transatlantic crossing in the past, we have never taken this northerly route.  

We have rented an apartment in the countryside near Leiden, Netherlands and will take day trips in the area.  Planning on visiting Haarlem, Leiden, Delft, Alkmar, etc.  Hoping to make it to the Kroller-Muller Museum near Arnhem.  

The apartment is behind a farmhouse with views of cows in the fields, canals, and windmills. Looking forward to a restful time before the cruise.  More updates to come from the Netherlands!  

The First Days - Portbail France

Church where Marie-Elisabeth was baptized - now used as a Museum

We will be home in less than a week.  Surprising how a trip can seem like it is both very short and very long at the same time.  It seems like we have been in France for ages, but it also seems like it was just yesterday that we arrived.  Since I started entries to the blog backwards in time, it is time to start at the beginning - our stay in Portbail, the village where Marie-Elisabeth was born.

The real reason for this trip was to celebrate Marie-Elisabeth’s 70th birthday in the village where she was born in Normandy. Normally we would not visit France this early in the year but this was such a special event that we decided to brave the weather.  Glad we did.  Despite some cold, windy, and rainy days in Portbail it was a wonderful visit. 

The Thirteen Arch Bridge Over the Estuary in Portbail

We have stayed in Portbail many times.  It is a small village on the west coast of the Cotentin Peninsula with views of the Isle of Jersey on clear days.  The village is set inland from the coast on an estuary with salt marshes.  A thirteen arch bridge crosses the estuary with a road leading to the beach and a small port.  The estuary is known for its extreme tides.  You can stand on the bridge and watch the tide come in – suddenly stop – and then reverse.  On days with the highest tides it is not unusual to find the bridge lined with people watching the tide come and go. We rented a different place this time – just across from the City Hall and a short walk to the village center.  Despite the close location we found ourselves driving into the village due to the weather.  The rental was spacious with a view of the estuary. One of the reasons we picked it was the large living area for the Birthday Party!

Marie-Elisabeth in front of her Grandparents' home where she was born. 

Marie-Elisabeth was born in her grandparents’ home on one of the two squares of the village – not many months after the village was liberated during the Normandy invasion.  Several years ago I added a blog entry that was a translation of M.E.’s grandmother’s description of the days before and after the invasion.  The “diary” gives a first-hand account of what civilians go through in war.  Just before leaving for this trip we noticed that someone had commented on the blog entry about the “diary.”  It was from a man who is involved in recognizing the events of the invasion in Portbail.  He wanted to meet with us to discuss this in more detail. We hastily emailed him that we would be in Portbail on this trip.  Unfortunately, we never found a time to meet but plan to get together in October when we are returning to the village.

Having arrived in Portbail after a long flight and a 5 hour drive from Paris, we spent several days getting over the jetlag.  Most of the time in Portbail was family related.  We had a wonderful birthday party on March 21 with 11 of us.  Cousins from both sides of the family – the Lecouté and Duchemin cousins, M.E.’s last living aunt (90), and her sister and brother-in-law from Barcelona.  A great family gathering!  

The PARTY!

Later in the week we visited another cousin in Cherbourg who could not make it to the party.  We visited two other cousins in Les Pieux (M.E.’s father’s village) who could not attend either.  Lots of talk and genealogy research sharing! We had a wonderful lunch with two cousins in a seaside restaurant in Sciotot, the beach “suburb” of Les Pieux. On another day we made our usual trip to Coutances to visit the Cathedral and a favorite pastry shop….of course.  We attended Palm Sunday Mass in the church that was just rubble in Marie-Elisabeth’s time – it was bombed during the invasion and reconstructed in the 1950’s.  Our time in Portbail flew by and then it was time for the drive south for our two weeks in the Dordogne region.  I plan a blog entry on that part of the trip – if not before we leave Paris then when we get home to San Diego!   

Lunch with Cousins in Sciotot

Pastry in Coutances

Paris Is Still Paris!

Our Neighborhood in the 14th

I guess it’s time to write something in the travel blog!  We left San Diego four weeks ago today and I have not written one line of our adventures.  I cannot argue that I have not had time so I’m not sure why the delay?  Maybe I am just enjoying the down time, no obligations, savoring simple pleasures…who knows? 

We are now in Paris – just beginning our fourth day here.  It is nice being back in our familiar apartment rental – almost like being at home. The apartment is in the 14th Arrondissement near the Alesia Metro stop.  We love this location because of the easy access to buses, shopping, and other services. Although we are almost at the southern border of Paris, we can be in central Paris by bus within 10-15 minutes.

 

Rue Daguerre Shopping Street - Cheese Glorious Cheese!

This is not a tourist area but a real Parisian neighborhood. Within a short distance is a wonderful cheese shop, butcher, bakery, and a large Monoprix (grocery) as well as all kinds of retail businesses.  Within a short walk is the Rue Daguerre shopping street.  It is one of the pedestrian only streets in Paris with many food shops mixed with restaurants and other stores for the neighborhood.  We often stop at the fresh pasta shop or the Greek store for easy dinner items that just require heating. Last night it was Moussaka and Tabbouleh salad.  This neighborhood is also known for the Discount Clothing shops of “big name” brands – dangerous!  “Our” shoe shop is near – one of the largest Mephisto Stores in France. What’s not to love about this neighborhood!

Of course, there is also an American invasion of the area – a Burger King has been added to the mix of McD’s, Office Depot, and Starbucks. Some will be shocked that I do not go to Starbucks.  I can do that at home – although I guess I should confess to buying ground coffee there on a few occasions.  France is only now getting into the quality coffee craze with a few roasters popping up in various areas of Paris.  Most acknowledge that coffee is not the best in the traditional cafes of France. Their appeal for me is the “people-watching” and the fact you can order one coffee and sit for as long as you want – with no one bothering you to move on! 

One of the things we love about coming to Paris is that we “just enjoy being here.”  We are in no rush to go everywhere and see everything.  I am blessed to have been here so often that it does not seem like a “foreign” city to me – it feels like a second home.  Of course, having my translator and guide with me helps a lot!  Actually, I’ve become the bus expert – especially with my handy RATP (Paris Transport) app on my phone. With this app, I can tell when the next bus is arriving, the fastest way to get from point A to point B, earlier and later options, bus and/or Metro options, etc. (Note – having TMobile as our provider helps a lot because we have free roaming in most parts of the world for data and texting.) With our Smart Card (weekly or monthly pass), it is a breeze to get around Paris. Nearly every bus stop has an electronic board that tells you when the next bus will arrive and the next arrival.  We can learn a lot from Europe about making public transport a viable option!

This is the type of notification board you find on most bus stops! Are you listening San Diego?

Our time in Portbail for the birthday celebration and the two weeks in the Dordogne were busy so our two weeks in Paris will be a time to catch our breath.  (More on Portbail and the Dordogne in a future blog post.)

We arrived here late on Saturday and only had time to get settled in the apartment and to shop for dinner and breakfast.  On Sunday we stayed near the apartment taking the time to rest.  Mass was across the street at the large parish church of the neighborhood – Saint Pierre de Montrouge. The church was packed and I was struck by the mix of congregants – men, women, old, young, families, and all races.  When the celebrant announced it was time for children to go to “their” program, a sea of kids marched out!  We learned that there was a concert in the afternoon of a Bach Cantata that would include a congregation “sing-along” with the concluding Choral portion of the work.  There was a rehearsal before the concert that we could attend to “learn our parts!” 

Of course, we attended, and it was wonderful! I recently attended a lecture at USD by Dr. Pfau on a Bach Cantata being performed on the campus. I always learn new things at USD lectures and their University of the Third Age program.  In Bach’s time, the congregation sang the final Choral segment of the Cantata because most were based on familiar Lutheran hymns. There is some debate about this but Dr. Pfau has spent extensive time in her native Germany researching Bach and his cantatas – so – I’ll take her word for it!  The Director took us through the parts and gave a short lesson in German pronunciation….an American in a French Church singing in German!

Rehearsal at Saint Pierre de Montrouge before singing in "our" Bach Cantata

We had a fun day on Tuesday running around Paris – finding places we wanted to visit either closed for renovations or totally gone!  The store we go to for Pashminas was closed but there was a sign for the new location – so – back on the bus.  For afternoon “snack” we wanted to go to a new place for hot chocolate in the Galerie Vivienne – A Priori Thé – but it was closed for renovations.  To get there we walked through the gardens of the Palais-Royal so the trip was not wasted as Spring had sprung in the beautiful setting of the gardens.  To compensate, we went to Ladurée for hot chocolate and “snack” – the one near the Madeleine. We prefer this location to the one on the Champs-Elysées.  As usual – excellent if not outrageously expensive!  Oh well – once every few years!

Chocolate with our Chocolate

During the day, we must have been on 5 or 6 buses.  I was curious to see how much Paris had changed since the terrorist attacks in November and the recent ones in Brussels.  So far, I cannot detect very much?  People seemed the same – I saw no overt presence of police or military.  However, Marie-Elisabeth noted military near the Printemps Department Store. One bus drove through the Courtyard of the Louvre near the I.M. Pei glass pyramid.  I thought I’d see more barriers and police but no changes I could detect.  Maybe I’ll see more during our stay.  There IS one thing that is different than home.  The media does not constantly hype and promote fear.  The reports during the Brussels attacks were factual with no constant drumming of dramatic music and screaming graphics (e.g. CNN, etc.).  There is also no 24 hours of ridiculous speculation from the pundit class. The attacks were horrendous but put in perspective you are in more danger in the U.S. from a car accident on the Interstate or from white young males with guns who have anger issues.  For us, Paris is still Paris.  Does France and Europe have problems?  Of course, but the French and Parisians are going about their business still enjoying their beautiful country and capital.  VIVE LA FRANCE! Am I a Francophile or what!  J

Cruise Continued – Naples, Civitavecchia, Livorno, Barcelona, Mallorca, Alicante, Malaga, and Cadiz!

Gentile Pasta Factory near Naples

We are on day two of the crossing from Cadiz, Spain to Ponta Delgada in the Azores.  I am very far behind with the blog!  So many ports…so little time!  The Mediterranean was like “glass” for the first part of the cruise but, we are now experiencing a “rock and roll” crossing to the Azores.  It finally feels like we are on a ship!  It has also been nice to just relax, read, and enjoy on-board activities after the port-intensive first part of the cruise.

Now to catch up!

Naples

This stop was a highlight.  Since we have spent time in the area on a driving trip, we wanted to do something different.  I organized a tour with two other couples from Cruise Critics to see Herculaneum and to visit the city of Gragnano – the pasta making capital of Italy.  Although we saw Herculaneum in a light rain, it did not disappoint.

 Our certified guide was full of information and enthusiasm for the site.  It is much smaller than Pompeii and is better preserved.  The City was not destroyed in the initial eruption like Pompeii but was covered with a pyroclastic flow after the first eruption of Mount Vesuvius.  As a result, there is more intact buildings and streets.  Some of the wall paintings and mosaics are incredibly well preserved.  There are even remnants of wooden beams intact. 

Gragnano is near Naples in the hills south of the City.  It is known as the pasta making capital of Italy.  We visited the family-owned Gentile pasta making factory.  The Barilla factory in northern Italy makes more pasta in one hour than Gentile makes in a year!  Gentile does it the “old-fashioned” way!  They have won many prizes in Italy for their pasta.  Next to the factory is a small shop where they sell their pasta, olive oil, fruit compotes, and tomato products.  In the middle of the shop, they set up a table for the six of us and served us lunch.  Fabulous! 

Civitavecchia

The port for Rome was the end of one cruise and the beginning of another – about half of the passengers stayed on for the second cruise.  Having been to Rome several times and with the long trip to the City, we opted to stay on board and rest.

Livorno

Livorno is the port closest to Florence.  As in the past, we rented a car to explore Tuscany.  The arrangements here are easy – the Europcar agency is in the terminal and we picked up the car and returned it dockside.  The GPS helps a lot!  We looked for something new in the area, having spent time in Tuscany and Umbria in the past.  We opted for Pistoia.  This Tuscan town is near Florence and did not seem to be on the tourist trail.  The Michelin Green Guide gives the town two stars – so since we trust Michelin, we gave it a try and were not disappointed.  It felt like we were some of the few tourists in town on a beautiful day with blue skies and crisp fall temperatures.  The central square was a pedestrian precinct with classic Italian Renaissance and Pre-Renaissance architecture dominating.  The small church of St. Andrea on a side street was fascinating – the pulpit was an incredible display of carving.  We had fun roaming the streets – with a stop for a cappuccino of course!

The next stop was Vinci – the birthplace of Leonardo.  This small village was near Pistoia.  We reached it after taking a winding and picturesque road over the hills separating Pistoia from the valley to the south.  Again, we wandered the streets and ended up at a Museum that reproduced some of the inventions of Leonardo – the models were done by IBM. 

Barcelona

After a day at sea, we arrived in Barcelona.  As usual, we took the Hop-On-Hop-Off bus for a tour around the city.  Always love seeing the Gaudi buildings along the route.  After taking the loop, we stayed on so we could get off near the Gothic Quarter.  The church of Santa Maria del Mar was something we had missed on previous visits to Barcelona.  It is wedged into the narrow warren of streets in the Gothic Quarter not far from the Cathedral.  Very glad we went.  We know that a lot of people do not care for visiting churches and Cathedrals, but we are fascinated with ecclesiastical architecture and the evolution of styles – from Romanesque to Gothic to Renaissance to Modern. 

Next stop was a lunch of tapas – octopus, shrimp, hummus, fried artichoke hearts, etc.  The final stop was the Picasso Museum – excellent audio guide but being a Saturday it was very crowded.  Back on the HOHO and back to the ship!

Palma de Mallorca

We joined another group of four other couples from Cruise Critics for a tour of Mallorca.  It started with a ride up into the hills outside Palma to the picturesque village of Valldemossa.  It was a Sunday and there was a festival in the village so fortunately our guide met us early so we could beat the crowds.  When we left, there was a line of cars several kilometers long trying to get into the small village! 

The streets are narrow and quaint.  It is also the village where Chopin and George Sand retreated when the composer was trying to recuperate from tuberculosis.  The mountain air was refreshing and would have been an improvement from Paris!  One of two saints from Mallorca was born in this village.  We walked by her childhood home.  The other saint who was born on Mallorca was Junipero Sera. 

We returned to Palma to see the magnificent Cathedral.  Because it was a Sunday, the Cathedral was only open for tourist visits from 1 to 2pm.  Having a local guide helps a lot – he timed everything perfectly!  The rose window in the Cathedral is the largest in the world with no stone dividers – only lead to hold the glass in place.  Gaudi also redesigned some of the interior – moving the choir behind the altar and opening the congregation view.  A side chapel had Gaudi’s characteristic fanciful designs.  Not always our “cup of tea” but interesting. 

Alicante 

We had told people this was our first time in Alicante and then we came around a corner into a Plaza in front of city hall and we realized we HAD been to this City before but we cannot remember when? Now – when we get home we have to figure this out!  Again we took the Hop-On-Hop-Off for orientation to the city – the ride up the switchbacks to the fort perched above the city was better than a ride at Disneyland.  The double-decker bus had to back up to make it around some of the hairpin turns!  We got off along the waterfront promenade and made our way to the Valor Shop – one of Spain’s top chocolate makers – for hot chocolate and churros.  Spanish Hot Chocolate is thick and rich – a perfect way to dip the churros! 

Malaga

In Malaga, we roamed the streets, visited the Cathedral (of course) and searched out a café we had read about that had classic hot chocolate and churros – (again – of course).  We just made it – arrived at 1pm and they closed for the day at 1:30pm.  That was close! 

Cadiz

We have been to Cadiz many times and love the old quarter with its narrow streets.  Ships dock next to the old town making it an easy place to wander.  Cadiz seems like a “real city” with residents going about their business despite the tourists.  Love to sit and watch the world go by….with hot chocolate and churros of course!  Cadiz is the first place we had this favorite – thanks to friends Reba and Imre Quastler who introduced us to our addiction when we stopped with them in Cadiz before our first Transatlantic cruise!  J  Our scientific research continues – someone has to do it!

Tomorrow Ponta Delgada – then Horta!  

Cruise – First Five Days – Ephesus, Rhodes, Santorini, Olympia, and a Sea Day

Santorini

This is our first “Sea Day’ on the first leg of the cruise….a day of rest.  We have been fortunate with the weather – no rain and not too hot.  I would not want to be walking around any of these places in summer!  These first four ports were fascinating!

Boarding in Athens went well – at least for us.  We arrived early to the terminal and were one of the first to check in.  Our cabin was ready early and we settled in – so nice to unpack once until Florida.  Our verandah “sticks out” beyond the one above so we have plenty of room for ocean/sea gazing.

Ephesus

We were part of a private tour group arranged through the Cruise Critics’ Roll Call.  The 12 of us met the guide early which gave us a head start on other tours.  Our guide, Hakan, was very good.  He was raised in upstate New York and graduated from Syracuse University.  When he returned to Turkey, he pursued a career in opera but had to stop due to asthma.  He then went to university for certification as a tour guide. 

This is our second time in Ephesus and Turkey.  The first trip was for 3 weeks and included central, southern, and western Turkey.  Our guide then was excellent also.  To be able to guide in historical sites, Turkey requires certification.  The same is true in Greece from what we understand – an excellent requirement.

Hakan was astute in timing our visits. We headed to the House of Mary first and got tickets and entered the small stone structure with no one in line.  By the time we left, the parking lot was full of buses!  The story/legend (?) is that St. John the Evangelist brought Mary to Ephesus and they stayed in this small remote house outside the City.  Christians were not safe in the Roman world at this time and they had to be cautious.  We later saw a fortress on a hill that is accepted as the place where St. Paul was imprisoned in Ephesus.  The last two Popes have “certified” that Mary lived in this house.

Although we had visited Ephesus before, it was about 15 years ago and it was in January.  We were very glad that we repeated.  We were able to see the Terrace Houses that only opened 5 years ago. This cluster of upper class homes have been excavated over many years.  Since they had been covered for centuries, many of the mosaic floors and painted walls were well preserved.  The many, many, many steps were worth the trudge. 

The library is a highlight as well as seeing their sophisticated sewer, heating, and water systems. One of the earliest examples of advertising is in the pavement – with directions and cost for the world’s oldest profession.  The city of 250,000 has only had a small percentage excavated – work continues. 

After the visit to Ephesus, we had lunch at a school for weavers – which was excellent.  The “catch” was a demonstration of silk spinning, weaving, and….of course, a sales pitch for rugs.  Did we succumb?  Of course…..  Same thing happened on the last trip to Turkey!

Rhodes

We had no formal tour planned for Rhodes – decided to start later and to wander on our own.  The ship docked right beside the walls of the old town. The impregnable walls were built by the Knights of the Order of St. John who occupied the town for over 200 years.

The old town is interesting although the tourist shops abound.  We started with a coffee in a shady courtyard near a small entrance through the wall just beyond the famous twin-towers. We then walked up the famous street with houses for the Knights that came to Rhodes on the way to the Crusades.  Each house was for different countries and languages.  We passed the Houses of Spain, France, Provence, Italy, etc.  There were many beautiful courtyards.  Fortunately, there were no tourist shops to spoil the atmosphere.  At the top of the street, we took a look at the courtyard of the Palace of the Grand Masters which is now a museum. 

Wandering back down the hill through the old town, we passed mosques – and many restaurants, sidewalk cafes, and shops selling the usual tourist trinkets.  Overall a good day of just wandering at our own pace.  

Santorini

The island of Thira (Greek) is commonly known as Santorini.  Our guide told us that this is actually Italian for Saint Irene.  Santorini is one of those places that I have seen in pictures so often that there was a danger of the reality not matching the expectation.  NOT THE CASE.  The beauty of the site and the landscape is amazing.  The only problem is that the island is a tourist ZOO!  We were there in off-season and there were still four other ships visiting. With no dock for large ships, tendering is required.  The only way to the top of the former caldera is by cable car, donkey, or walking up the stairs dodging the donkeys and their “leavings.” 

We had another tour arranged by the Roll Call.  The 12 of us met the guide at the top.  From there he took us to various viewpoints in the perched villages along the edge of the former volcano. He knew the best places to stop but the crowds in the villages were beyond belief.  I cannot imagine what it must be like in summer – the high season. We stopped for lunch in a seaside café near the airport and then drove to the highest point on the island to the site of a Greek Orthodox Monastery.  The line for the descent in the cable car was incredible – not sure how everyone made it back to the ship on time!  Santorini can be checked off of the “bucket list,” but I’m not sure I would go back.

Katakolon – Port for Olympia

Today was another tour for the Cruise Critics’ Roll Call.  This one I arranged for a group of 10.  The company I picked is owned by a woman who was on Rick Steves’ TV program about Olympia and is recommended by him.  Over the years we have come to trust Rick Steves’ judgment.  We were not disappointed. 

Our guide, Georgina, was one of the best we have had anywhere.  She was fun, knowledgeable, savvy…and patient with us “tourists.”  We left the ship early to get ahead of the crowds.  We were among the first tours to arrive from the ship.  While other tour guides take you to the stadium first and then “let you loose” on the site on your own, Georgina started with the other parts of the site with full historical background and explanations.  We ended with the Museum that many tours skip.  It was a highlight – many of the sculptures unearthed at the site are here – with some in Athens or other museums around the world.  Georgina was very good at taking us through the museum to see the highlights and to avoid the crowds when possible. 

After Olympia, we went to the home of a Greek family for a home cooked meal. I just have one thing to say - WOW!  Appetizers included moussaka, Greek bruschetta, stuffed grape leaves in a lemon sauce, Tzatziki with beets, traditional Tzatziki, bread, Kalamata olives, wine – and that was to start!  Next came the main course – a kind of pasta that looked like orzo with chicken in tomato sauce.  We finished with a type of Greek fried pastry in honey and a dish that I can only describe as Greek tiramisu.  THEN – our hostess delivered a Greek drink that was like an eau de vie – but not Ouzo?  The meal was served on their terrace with a wonderful view of the valley below.  The owner, a local doctor, also has a large olive grove on the property.

WHAT A DAY!

Now we are resting on our sea day between Greece and Italy.  Tomorrow Naples and another adventure. 

Athens – Continued

Acropolis Museum - Originals of the copies on the Erechtheion adjacent to the Parthenon

We have spent the last three days exploring Athens – catching up on things we missed in 2010. Tonight is dinner with three other couples who are on the cruise.  We leave for the port in the morning and the start of our 26 days on the Zuiderdam.  Although we have enjoyed our time in Athens, the thought of unpacking for good until Florida has its appeal – as well as someone else doing the cooking, cleaning, bed-making, laundry, and “driving.” 

Our second full day in Athens was on Sunday.  Jet lag was still an issue so we did not get a start until about noon.  We walked the short distance to the Acropolis Museum which is just around the corner from the apartment we rented.  The weather was threatening and a museum seemed like a good bet – of course, everyone else had the same idea.  It was also Sunday so many Athenians and their families seemed to also be there.

We started with lunch in the Restaurant that has a stunning view of the Acropolis Hill.  While eating, we watched lightening make its way across the City but it remained dry on the outside terrace in front of us….for a while!  The outside diners’ luck did not hold out.  The heavens opened and we witnessed a downpour of epic proportions.  We have not seen such a rainstorm in a long time. 

The Museum Building itself is one of the stars besides the art from the Acropolis and Parthenon.  The glass and steel building was designed by a Swiss born New York based architect – Bernard Tschumi. The light in the structure is perfect for the displays and even worked on the less than sunny day we were there. 

With the opening of the Museum in 2009, the Greeks hoped to eliminate one of the objections of returning the art work pillaged by Lord Elgin now housed in the British Museum.  So far…no luck.  Reportedly, the British are afraid that other countries will want their stolen art back too!

Displays have thorough explanations in both Greek and English.  There is a well-produced video on the Acropolis Hill and Parthenon that rotates in Greek and English – with subtitles for both.  The sculpture is amazing – too many things to go into detail – Here is the link to the Museum’s collection. 

One of the highlights on the Third Level is a replica of the original frieze that went around the Parthenon – it is in a gallery that wraps around the top floor.  The Museum only has 32 feet of the 525 foot frieze.  Lord Elgin did not steal the ones that were damaged.

The next day was the National Archaeological Museum.  We thoroughly enjoyed this museum. It is considered one of the world’s finest for ancient Greek art.  It traces Greek art from 7000 BC to 500 AD.  Displayed in roughly chronological order, you go through various civilizations from the Minoans to the Roman period.  The displays have excellent English explanations in spacious well-lit rooms. 

Today was the hop on hop off bus.  It had excellent narration but the traffic in Athens is very bad so it took a long time to get anywhere.  We got off early near the Ancient Agora, had lunch, and then wandered through the Plaka.  We are now packing to get ready for joining the Zuiderdam tomorrow for the next leg of the trip.  OPA!