Sunday, May 5, 2013

Fort Lauderdale to Aruba

Beach Time on Aruba

Our flights from San Diego to Fort Lauderdale via Dallas were relatively uneventful.  The planes were full but thanks to my Gold for Life status we were in the expanded seating area of Economy – those extra few inches of legroom make ALL the difference.  Dallas to Fort Lauderdale was a bit strange – no beverage service because of the bumpy ride (they said), even though we have had flights a lot more turbulent. 

Since the shuttle to the hotel was not the best experience, the next morning we opted for a taxi to the Port Terminal.  We went early enough that traffic was sparse and we were able to check in immediately – only 8 to 10 people in the waiting area.  Of course, we had to wait two hours to board but we had plenty to do – thanks to Kindle. Our friends, the Quastlers, had to disembark after the World Cruise and re-board for this repositioning so we had a chance to see them in the boarding area. 

After lunch in the Lido, we found our room which is our home away from home – we are used to these Holland America cabins so we know where to put everything.  Later we joined our friends at the early dinner seating along with friends of the Quastlers who are also on this cruise.  

The next two days were “sea days” – our favorite time on a ship!  Relaxation, eating, book reading, Team Trivia, eating, naps, lectures, and – did I mention eating?  Actually, we’re trying to be good on the “food front” which is not easy – especially considering the cookies! 

Yesterday was Aruba – undoubtedly our least favorite Caribbean island – but we seem to keep repeating this stop – this was our third time on the island.  This trip we opted to rent a car and go to a beach that was recommended on Trip Advisor – Eagle Beach.  This is in the low-rise hotel area.  We found a spot in front of Amsterdam Manor – at this time of year (past peak season) they allow “day-trippers” to use their beach front.  The Quastlers had joined us so we stayed at a table under a nice shady tree until the restaurant opened.  We ordered lunch and they delivered it to us in interesting stackable “Asian Steam baskets.”  The food was actually quite good and not badly priced for being right on a beautiful beach. 
Imre opens the magic lunch stackables!!

After dropping off the Quastlers in downtown Oranjestad, we drove to the far south tip of the island to a recommended beach – Baby Beach.  Well – not the best idea in some respects.  The drive was uninspiring – through a decidedly non-tourist area.  It was dry, dusty, uninspiring landscape, one small settlement after another.  Finally a sign for Baby Beach – we then drove by an abandoned Valero Refinery and a prison before finding the beach.  It was admittedly a beautiful blue/green sea with white sand in a well protected lagoon but there were few trees and only a few shade structures.  Very glad we went to the other beach. 

Returning the car was an ordeal – it was NOT easy to find a parking place in the public lot across from the Hertz Office.  The walk back to the ship was the walk from HELL – it was in the 90s with the humidity about the same.   If there ever is a “next time” for Aruba – I doubt if I get off the ship.

Today is another wonderful sea day – tomorrow the Panama Canal transit! 

Monday, April 29, 2013

Panama Canal Cruise - Fort Lauderdale to San Diego

Our Itinerary on the Amsterdam
We leave for Fort Lauderdale in the morning!  Let's hope American Airlines doesn't cancel all their flights again!  We are joining our friends Reba and Imre Quastler for this repositioning cruise from Florida to Vancouver.  The Quastlers have been on part of a round-the-world cruise - Hong Kong to Florida via Asia and Africa.  Following their blog has been amazing!  The Amsterdam's World Cruise ends in Florida on Wednesday but it then heads to Alaska for the summer cruising season - so we are taking advantage of the stop in San Diego.  

Nicaragua will be a new port for us - we are repeating the other stops but this cruise was mostly for rest and relaxation.  Love those sea days of reading, resting, Team Trivia, etc.  On Aruba the plan is to find a beach with a talapa, chair, and something to drink with an umbrella!  Probably the same schedule for the ports in Mexico.  We are going to the Monteverde Cloud Forest when in Costa Rica.  We were there on a land tour of Costa Rica many years ago so it will be interesting to see what has changed in Monteverde.

So - here we go again.  I'll try to post some updates as we go.

Diary of June and July 1944 - WWII Liberation of Portbail, France



Village of Portbail at High Tide - Church of Notre Dame
Portbail is the village where Marie-Elisabeth was born.  It is just 30 miles from Utah Beach, across the Cotentin Peninsula from the Normandy Invasion landing beaches.  Her grandparents lived in Portbail throughout the German occupation.  Her grandmother's diary is not just a history lesson of the movement of troops and their battles.  It paints a picture of what the civilian population went through during the Invasion - an  aspect of war that we do not always hear much about. 

Only 20 months after the liberation, Marie-Elisabeth was born in the house her grandmother describes.  As a child, she remembers the reconstruction of the village and especially the reopening of the church St. Martin that is described in this diary.  Her grandparents' home was one of the lucky ones - it "only" lost the roof, windows, and suffered flooding after each rain -  and the outhouse had a direct hit of a bomb!  War is an abstraction to many of us - but not to Europeans.  

Notes on the liberation of Portbail, Normandy, France, by
Marguerite Victorine Léonie Duchemin née Huet

This diary of June and July 1944 describes the liberation of Portbail and was translated from the French by Marie-Elisabeth Clark née Lecouté – granddaughter of the author.  The translator is also the daughter of Marguerite Duchemin Lecouté whose nickname was “Rirette.”  Rirette had gone to Morocco when France was invaded because her brother was stationed there with the French Army during the war.

Comments from the translator clarifying the text will be found in italics and smaller font size.

June and July 1944

July 10 – To Rirette (Daughter Marguerite Lecouté née Duchemin)
(Pages 1 and 2 of original notebook)

Portbail was honored with a press release: “The Little City of Portbail.”  If it is just a “little city,” it has suffered greatly with 32 houses destroyed right in the middle of the village which does not take into account the houses that were shaken, the roofing uncovered, doors and windows blown out, and panes of glass broken.  In this turmoil, we were privileged since our house is still habitable. The roof has to be redone. When it rains, the water arrives in all of the bedrooms and down to the first floor where almost all the windows are broken.   The back house has also lost its roof blown out by a bomb which fell on the outhouse which has disappeared into thin air – it does not exist anymore.  And to think that if I had not been in Bosquesville, I might have been in the back of the garden where I was attracted whenever I heard planes. For about two months there have been no days without us being threatened.  Papa (Emile Duchemin) would assure me that Portbail did not present any interest since there was no objective – no more Germans except at the beach – just a few. 

Alas – the little city had to have its share.  And our beloved church St. Martin does not exist anymore.  It has burned completely – only the walls are left.  The Trapist monk, who was replacing the Father who was dying, had removed all the documents from the sacristy as a precaution on the day before the fire.  Two days after the fire a bomb finished off the altar of the Virgin Mary.  I dread seeing all of that again tomorrow – it is so sad.  The row of houses from Lemonnier Hairdresser all the way to Lemarquant included is burned.  Only the “Villa des Jasmins” is still standing although the inside suffered a lot – its caretaker extinguished the fire in three different spots throughout the house.  The fire stopped at the house of Madame Urvoy.  The house was beginning to burn.  The firefighters were able to stop the fire with a deluge of water – which was about time for us (the Duchemin house was next door).  The old bakery Legaillard caught on fire also.

After that terrible night, the Father was moved to the countryside (he died there a few days later, but he had the consolation of shaking the hands of four Americans).  These Americans were already gathering in big numbers at the Haut-de-Grès.  The following night new fires were devastating the other side of the Square (Place aux Arbres) - three houses in a row - and then over here, Mr. Audouard’s house and another one next to Mademoiselle Fresnays.  Total – 32 completely destroyed counting the ones that were flattened under the bombs like Madame Peltier’s – the first to suffer – completely pulverized into piles of stone hurled around.  Fortunately for them they were in Belle-Vue.  Madame Duval, who had buried her husband three weeks before, was afraid of staying alone with Genevieve.  She had asked them (Genevieve and her family) to keep her company because she had already been the victim of a volley of shooting which without causing damage had scared her.  Genevieve was there with her kids and husband for the funeral of her father.  Her husband had returned home immediately after the interment. 

I will add to this chapter that during the fire a very strong wind had been activating the blaze following a period of great drought.  During this time, bombs had exploded once in a while in this unfortunate little town.  There were no more inhabitants – the men who were present had come back from the surrounding countryside (when seeing the blazes from where they were hiding during the bombing).  This is only a summary of, I think, the most tragic day – following now are a few notes of what happened during June as much as my memory can recall.  You will find these notes on a different page. It is possible that there will be some repetition of what I have already written. 

(Page 3 of original notebook)

For more than 2 months before the arrival of the Americans, the Boches* had taken our radios.  However, we were not without news thanks to a few resourceful people who had kept one out of two of their radios.  But then it was the turn of electricity to be suppressed but we still had news from the “poste à galène” (crystal radio set).  A young electrician, Jean Steiner, from Bosquesville has always kept us up to date and he is still doing it. 

* Boches is a derogatory name in French for Germans most common during WWI but still used by some people in France.

Every day we would hear news of shelling on our big cities in the Manche Department – Valognes, Coutances, Montebourg – they were disaster victims on several occasions.  I am without news from my Aunt, Sister Saint-Charles.   All communication with the south is cut off and I know that the bridge of Soulles located at 300 meters from the convent has been bombed from the coast by the canons of the Allied Navy – 400 dead and about 1,000 injured it is said – our Doctor Lefèvre received the order to go there to help.  Bishop Louvard (bishop of Coutances and Avranches) has been seriously injured.  The events were happening so fast that his death could not be confirmed. 

The situation was more and more tense so every day we were expecting something new happening when in the night of the 5th and 6th of June we were awakened around 11pm by a continuous roaring of planes which stopped only at 4am on the morning of June 6.  We got up to see what was going on.  It was an “army” of the air.  The night was clear and they were not flying very high.  It was impressive!  I will never forget this sight.  Where were they going?  Surely there was going to be some change.  In the morning we learned that the British had landed on the coast of Calvados and that numerous parachutists had landed at Pont-L’Abbé and at Carentan.  They will be fighting for 15 days – Carentan will be taken and retaken.  I am thinking of my Aunt Maria of whom I have no news. There was still more bombing in our close surroundings.  Madame Urvoy and her daughters (Maryvonne one of the daughters was later married to Paul Duchemin – son of the author) decided to leave for Bosquesville offering for me to go with them.  I refused. 

It was Tuesday June 6 – no market – there is a little bit of panic.  It is the following Friday that Coutances will have so many victims from the shelling of the Allied Navy.  On Saturday June 10 it is the turn of Valognes which people say has had a lot of damage.  The cause is supposed to be that the Germans took advantage of the streets of the city to park their tanks and their tracked vehicles
(Page 4 of original notebook) They were spotted. 

Every night the transportation of the air born troops (parachutists) will be repeated.  Yvette and Maryvonne come every day to get as many of their personal belongings as possible and each time they invite me to join them in Bosquesville.  I will still wait but two suitcases of clothes have been ready for more than a month.  Our good linen was stuffed in trunks placed in the back house in case of fire so we could get them out easily into the garden. (Note – the linen was hand embroidered and came as part of the author’s trousseau.)

Monday – June 12 – I am 60 years old.  For my birthday emotions were going to be heightened.  The planes – always the planes – (I am alone and Emile (her husband) is in the garden at the end of the village.)  They are flying over and bombing Barneville and Carteret, they are coming closer, it is St. Georges (village probably St. Georges-de-la-Rivière).  The garden did not attract me.  I stayed in the back house (workshop called atelier in French); the explosions are blowing into the door.  Between each pass of the planes – a moment of calm.  I am not brave.  Emile is coming back by the archway gate, that reassures me a little bit.  Madame Pierre Luce comes to find us under the archway; she is going to Bosquesville. Yvonne is already gone. Again, the planes. This time it is on us that some bombs fell.  Infernal noise of broken windows in the village.  The plane has left.  We go out on the square.  The neighbors do the same. The bombs fell on the shore right by Raoul Sansom’s (family friend’s house).  He arrives a moment later, his house has been shaken, doors and windows have been blown out, not one window has resisted, the same at Gaby’s house (friend).  Raoul is wondering where he is going to sleep; we offer him hospitality.  Emil warns him that I am certainly going to Bosquesville.  I will learn the following day that Lucienne Quesnel came to fetch Gaby.  Raoul will simply leave a trunk with us that we place with ours without any guarantee.  He is going to sleep at St. Marc (village) with a cousin.  A lot of Portbaillais are going to leave the village.  Madame Urvoy and her daughters arrive in a cart to take away still more of their belongings.  This time I do not hesitate – we are going to leave with our suitcases.  We are taking advantage of a car parked behind the wall of our garden so that it would not attract attention.  The owner - André Hamel – parked it there because he was ignoring the prohibition of cars being used. He simply went through Montfiquet (a small road that avoids the main streets across the village) so it does not attract attention. 

(Page 5 of original notebook)

Friday June 16 – Portbail is bombed around 5pm for 45 minutes by 32 “double-tails.”  During this time, we were in the trench shelter (in Bosquesville) dug out by the family Lequertier (relatives of Madame Urvoy).  Emile came back to the village before the bombing. Yvette and Maryvonne had been obliged to go to Portbail to do an inventory of their mother’s shop – demanded by the Mayor.  They are surprised with the bombing in the village while in a field behind their house when they were trying to reach the shortcut by Montfiquet.   While lying on the ground they see all of the bombs falling from the planes.  They call on all the Saints of Paradise; pray loudly.  The pieces of shrapnel rain around them without touching them.  They see in the distance Madame Lemoigne and Madame Lhardi who are fleeing in the direction of Montfiquet.  Yvette and Maryvonne take advantage of a moment of calm to run to the shore all the way to Heullerie (small village outside Portbail) where they take refuge in the trenches of the people of this hamlet.  There they wait until the end of the bombing.  We were all very worried about them.  The following morning we learned that the houses of Monsieur Peltier and his neighbor had been pulverized – only a pile of stones were left.  Fortunately, the inhabitants had gone to sleep somewhere else.   Few victims – three dead – an old woman Julia Prunier, a young girl Desperques, and a conscripted laborer foreign to the region.  A few injured.  Eligest and the young Eliard.  The dead will be buried temporarily in their gardens because all gatherings are forbidden; the roads are constantly watched by the planes and shot at as soon as there is a gathering.   In the meantime we hear the most alarming news concerning Pont-L’Abbé.  They have been fighting there for several days hand to hand. There are no houses left standing.  Even the Asylum where the Germans were hiding was not spared.  The most insane had been sent in advance to Pontorson.  And for the others the losses were unknown.  We were told that some drowned in the swamp.

St-Sauveur-le-Vicomte also has suffered a lot.  The Abbey has burned.  I could not receive confirmation – it is possible that only the church and main house were burned.  We were told that the sisters evacuated to Selsoif (village 3 or 4 kilometers away) and that they did not have one change of wimple.  The convent was full of munitions that the German used to start the fire before they left.  The novitiate was a Boche Hospital.  The village of St.-Sauveur itself suffered several bombings before the battle; a good number of houses are destroyed.  They set the forest on fire from planes because it was hiding a lot of Boche munitions.   

I am coming back to our personal story.  We spent the night in the trenches because the planes were shooting on all the roads at German convoys which were fleeing toward the south along the coastal roads. 

 (Page 6 of original notebook)

What a pleasure to notice the debacle for the Germans!  It had been predicted that they would set everything on fire as they were leaving but they were not even taking the time to do it.  They would stop in the village (Portbail) and that is what is said would be the cause of the fire of our church St. Martin.  A motorcycle was spotted, he flees into the Presbytery, his motorcycle is shot at, the engine takes fire, it lights up the German convoy camouflaged around the Square under the trees (Place aux Arbres), the planes shoot at the convoy, the church burns.  The Panaget House (ex-house Leprévost) and of Lecoley are knocked down by a bomb, they are only a pile of stones that block the street, there are only a few fanatics left in the village – Mr. David and Madame Després (the crazy one).  The inhabitants are all spread around in the countryside.  Some have found a shelter, others sleep in barns, the most destitute are in the hunting grounds under the cover of the hedges.  Fortunately the weather is good.  Two other houses have burned at the Callouins (Dennis and Meslin houses).  The house of the family Dujardin across from our garden (the one at the end of the village) has vanished under a bomb.  There is only a hole in its place and what a hole!  Everything has disappeared in the explosion, the cabin of our garden is in pieces, and the house Agnès has become uninhabitable.  The planes are shooting without stopping.  Emile is still going every day to the village.  Sometimes he goes through the hunting grounds, along the railroad to avoid taking the cemetery road where, from the Heullerie all the way to the Boys School, one can encounter the cadavers of twenty-two horses ripped open. The night before a German convoy of munitions was bombed on that stretch.  A few Germans were killed.  The others fled in a little path. The following days the cadavers of their horses will leave an awful smell on the road.  Nobody will even dream of burying them because of the danger of being shot at. 

Monday June 19 – The first American troops arrive at Haut-de-Gris (small hamlet near Portbail).  The cannons begin to aim at Portbail.  A German gun camouflaged on the Mont de Besneville takes its turn to shoot. Before the shooting was adjusted, a few stray projectiles fell on our surroundings (in Bosquesville). We are often in the trench. In the evening of this Monday, the fire is in the village.  Emile goes to the top of the hill to see what is going on.  There he meets Mr. Ledoux who is back from the village where he went out of curiosity. 

 (Page 7 of original notebook)

It (fire) is around the church St. Martin and the wind is blowing in that direction.  He goes in the evening to the village and will come back at only 1:30 in the morning.  He pulled the trunks left in advance in the workshop out into the garden. He then fights the fire with the men who came, as well as the firemen from Barneville and from Denneville.  The houses burned from the Villa Hélène, dependence of the rectory, Lemonnier hairdresser, and the whole row (except for the Villa des Jasmins) all the way to the house Lemarquant included.  The fire extinguishes itself when a bomb falls right on the gable of the house finishing the destruction of the façade.  “Run for your life!” screamed the policemen from Barneville!       

When he returned, Emile tells us that our house was sparred.  This time we are sleeping in the bed, but what a night!  However there is a long period of calm in the explosion of the bombs.  At daybreak someone comes pounding on our shutters.  Again the village is burning.  All the able-bodied men to the fire if we want to save something!  Emile gets dressed quickly and goes. The fire had started again at Lemarquant and there were some new hot spots in other streets and at Mr. Audouard. 

Madame Urvoy and her daughters leave also.  They were invited by the Gentès who kindly offered to help save more of their belongings if there is still time.  An hour later a cyclist comes to ask me for the keys to our armoires, so the house is not burned yet if there is still hope to empty them!  In fact, when Madame Urvoy arrived in the village it was to learn that her house was beginning to burn.  The firemen opened the gable to put water on the fire.  There will be more damage from water than by fire.  How lucky for us if it stops there (the Duchemin house is next door).  In the meantime, linen and bedding will be transported to Bosquesville.  From time to time, bombs are still falling on the village.  At each explosion people ask “for which house is this one?” In early morning – calm.  It starts again mid-morning.  Around noon Lucille Marting (18 years old) who leaves her trench to go get clothes is decapitated by a bomb.  She is killed instantly under the eyes of her parents. The Trapist monk who is constantly circulating to comfort people learns about it.  He is the one who will carry her on her bed while the parents are fleeing.  She will be buried a few days later without a coffin.  

(Page 8 of original notebook)

Friday June 23 – Death of the Priest at Val.  He will be buried in his garden while waiting for the end of the war.  Our dear Trapist was not there at his death.  He was asked to go into the German lines at the beach of Ourville to ask them to release an American negotiator.  He crossed the river bravely and never returned.  They kept him.  The American officer negotiator was shot.  His body will be found after the Boche retreat. The American batteries are settled at Haut-de-Gris and shoot a barrage of fire on the rivers. 

From Bosquesville we are very aware of the direction of the shooting.  It is at the village of Rivières that Madame Sevaux and all the people of the upper end of the village took refuge.  It was like walking into the lion’s den.  They all slept in barns – they spent a terrible night. The following morning they will all run to St. Siméon.  Madame Sevaux will stay there three weeks without getting undressed.  On Sunday July 2, she will spend the day with us at our place at Bosquesville.  I can say “at our place” because even though we are sharing with Madame Urvoy, we occupy the apartment of her renter who is absent.  We are in a good place – a good bedroom, a small living room and a kitchen where I find all I need. Our chickens and our rabbits and even the cat have been brought here.  We only have the worry of the war and the house.  So we really are privileged.   Madame Sevaux has also some damage at her place and like for us the roof is very damaged and many windows are broken. 

What will I say of the three days when the Americans attacked Cherbourg after taking Barneville and Carteret?  Portbail was left high and dry and was not liberated.  According to the officials it was a “no man’s land” – we were neither in the German nor American sectors.  Barneville and Carteret were not bombed – there was very little damage.  Before the Americans could decide to make their advance to La Haye-du-Puits, they had to take Cherbourg.  From Barneville moving up to the north of the Cotentin, La Hague was liberated without resistance.  For Cherbourg, it was a continuous thunder roll of three days.  We were under the impression that there would not be anything left of that city while apparently the center of the city suffered very little. 

(Page 9 of original notebook)

It is rather around Octeville, Tourlavaille, and the quarter of Roule which suffered.  How happy we were that Cherbourg surrendered after three days of fighting even though the Boches had not spared anything for four years to fortify it.   The Place Divette had become a mountain of sand. Cherbourg had been evacuated of its population almost in totality. 

Madame Lemoigne-Nielsen is one of the most disaster-stricken since her four houses in a row have burned; they are nothing but ruins.  At the end of the village, her garage that the Boches had transformed into a recreation center is also uninhabitable.  A suitcase full of precious clothes that she had sent to Ourville was stolen by looters.  She is very courageous.  She says that what she is missing the most is news from her children. 

Thursday July 13 – I came back to Portbail this morning.  I had left just a month ago.  On the approach to the village, my heart is heavy seeing all these ruins.  The village is quite animated because it was the day of distribution of bread – 150 grams per person (less than 4 ounces). It is little but the meat and the rest are not lacking.  While coming into the house, I am impressed by the amount of debris of slate and tiles.  The three buildings are partly uncovered and unfortunately a rain storm came to flood the rooms.  It does not matter – we do not have the right to complain and I thank God it is not worse. 

Friday July 14 – It is the first time in four years that I have seen the French flag floating in Portbail.  Is it possible? Even Mr. Audouard raised his flag in his ruins.  At 11am - simple ceremony but touching at the Memorial.  Flowers deposited.  Short speech from the mayor, thank- yous to the Americans, screams of “Vive de Gaulle!” even from people who accused him of being a traitor.  We sing the Marseillaise.  The American Captain says a few words in French. He announces a concert with American music which arrives to the surprise of the people.  We hear played some French tunes – “Sambre et Meuse” – and the concert ends with the Marseillaise and the American National Anthem.  It is really true that the Boches are no longer here. 

 (Page 10 of original notebook)

Saturday July 15 – Today I had the opportunity of hearing some news from Carentan from a young lady who took advantage of a truck to come and see her family.  I asked someone to ask her if she could take a letter to my Aunt Maria.  It is “yes.”  When I bring her the letter, I learn from her that the Aunt is probably disaster-stricken.  From the post office all the way to the railroad passage, the entire row of houses has burned.  The house of Madame Joyeux received a bomb.  There have been many civilian victims and every day there are more because the front is only at 5 kilometers.  The Boches are still sending bombs.

We had the visit of Raoul Sansom who came to take back his trunk.  He has been without news from Colette for two months; the young couple had joined Mr. and Mrs. Fossey from Cherbourg evacuated to Rampan a few kilometers away from St. Lô where they have been fighting for 15 days.  Raoul does not have any news from Gaby either who was picked up by Lucienne and Madeleine.  He locked his house.

Denneville endured for a long time the presence of the Boches because they resisted for two weeks at Barreville and Lindbergh Plage.  The village of the Rivières was the line of fire.  They say that the Boches evacuated the villagers of Denneville by the south.  After the retreat of the Germans, a few curious people ventured to Denneville.  There was not one inhabitant.  No news either of the Trapist monk.  Since we have been in Bosquesville we had to go to St. Georges to go to mass.  Tomorrow the mass will be said here at the Village Hall because the roof of Notre Dame has been much damaged. 

Sunday July 16 – Solemn mass in the Village Hall.  Room jam-packed and a lot of Americans.  Coming back from the vespers I have the visit of Mr. and Mrs. Travers (sister of Madoux).  Mr. and Mrs. Ledoux, who had taken refuge at her place, went back to Cherbourg right after the City was liberated.  The Americans have had more losses to take La Haye-du-Puits than for Cherbourg.  La Haye was taken and re-taken several times.  The fighting lasted five to six days. The City is nothing but ruins.  From the Cannelier Mill we could see fires every day.  (Portbail to La Haye is less than 9 miles). 

Tuesday July 18 – Big rainstorm this morning which showed us the consequences of a house with a partial roof; the bedroom in the back was a pond before the water found its way to the kitchen downstairs. 

 (Page 11 of original notebook)

Thursday July 20 – They gave us back our radio this morning but we would need electricity. For lack of it, the press releases are posted every day.  We do not receive the newspaper from Cherbourg because the bus does not come anymore.  We have learned about the liberation of St. Lô this morning. St. Lô is nothing but ruins according to the press release.  “City martyred!”  I’m thinking of the inhabitants that I know.  If Gabriel Hérout comes back to Portbail, he will find nothing but ruins also – his three houses have burned to the ground and Mrs. Hérout’s house is no longer habitable.  Mrs. Hérout died fifteen days ago at Canville where she was transported to the sister of Gabriel’s wife. 

Saturday July 22 – The front line is stationary in Lessay so we still hear the guns.  The wetlands of Lessay offer a natural separation as was the case here three weeks ago between Portbail and Denneville.  I learned yesterday from Raoul Sansom that some men from Denneville went back to their homes the day before yesterday; they were said to have crossed the wetlands of Lessay thanks to the night and fog but it was too risky for women and especially for children. He thinks that Mr. Quesnel is part of the group.  So apparently the family stayed in Créances with Gaby.  They would still be with the Boches since Créances has not been liberated.  They say that some refugees will arrive in the district.  It is not Portbail who will receive a lot. Barfleur which did not suffer is said to have received 4,000 refugees from Caen. 

Same day in the evening – This afternoon visit of Madame Lecouté (future mother-in-law of her daughter), pleasant surprise.  She took advantage of Dr. Boisroux’s car.  He was on his way to La Haye-du-Puits to offer donations from the village of Les Pieux to the refugees.  She came to bring us some news of her son Jean who she had seen the day before yesterday (Jean is the future husband of Marguerite Duchemin, daughter of the author.)  How happy she was!  What a pity for us that he did not have the time to come all the way here. She told us at the same time of the birth of our second grandchild Michel. (Emile Duchemin, the son of the author, is the brother of Marguerite Duchemin. He was stationed in Rabat, Morocco with the French Army. He was there with Marguerite along with his wife Andrée and their sons Paul and now Michel.)

We gave her a tour of the ruins of the village. I introduced her to Madame Lemoigne that we often see rummaging in her houses where only the walls are left.  How sad it is to have lost everything in such a short time.  She lives in one of the houses of the Guillemin.  She has only one desire – to restore as fast as possible what she calls the workshop – a small house with only one floor in the back of the garden where she would live in her ruins.  What heartbreak for the family Nielsen when they learn about and “take in” the disaster. 
(Page 12 of original notebook)

Sunday July 23 – Mass and vespers still in the village hall.  This afternoon Emile went to Denneville to see the Quesnel.  Yes it is true! Mr. Quesnel came back with a few men including his brother-in-law Mr. N… (?).  The women stayed in Créances still in the hands of the Germans.  The women are in a camp in the dunes.  I saw Raoul this morning.  I asked him if he was not going to try to go to Colette now that St. Lô is liberated.  He answered it is up to the young people to come and see him.  A plane just fell in flames in St. Georges.  The Americans run to it.  A moment later a formidable detonation – it still happens quite often.  Everyone goes to their door; no one knows where it comes from.  A mine that has exploded?  It is better to think of that than anything else.  The good weather came back but rain is on its way – Watch out roofless houses!  We still hear the guns in Lessay.  Our doors are shaken.  I don’t like that and yet it is not even the shadow of what we have heard last month. 

If the men of Denneville have abandoned the women in Créances, it is not without a motive. For several days, they had been tracked by the Boches who had warned that no man between 6 and 50 years of age could stay in the camp. They were hiding in the bushes and the women would bring them something to eat but that situation could not last.  A few days later the women, who could not tolerate the situation because of the bombs, left by foot all the way to Blainville.   


Sunday, October 14, 2012

The Great Escape - October 2012


View from our Rome Flat on the Inner Courtyard

We are escaping the election noise again!  Voted as "walk-ins" on October 8 before LEAVING THE COUNTRY!  Our trip is to Rome for 4 nights then two back to back cruises.  The first is Rome to Rome and the second is Rome to Fort Lauderdale - both on the Noordam. 

The flights to Rome did not start off well.  We sat at the gate in San Diego - seated and ready to take off - for an hour and twenty minutes due to "weather" in San Francisco.  Having lived in the Bay Area, we know that "weather" at SFO can mean anything from  dense fog to four drops of rain.   When we arrived a little over an hour late, it was sunny and beautiful so "who knows?"   Our first bit of luck was that our gate was directly adjacent to the walkway to the International Terminal - PLUS - I had purposely booked our next flight with over two hours of leeway. 

The next flight was a non-stop to Frankfurt on a 747.  This flight left 45 minutes late but our arrival in Frankfurt was on time - again proving the airlines have lots of "fudge factor" in their schedules.  Our second stroke of good luck was that we both had empty seats next to us on the SFO to FRA flight. United's Economy Plus is also a big help - the extra few inches of leg space makes a lot of difference - less of a feeling of having been folded into unnatural positions for 12 hours. 

Next was the Lufthansa flight to Rome - the connection in Frankfurt was fairly easy and the flight left on time.  The plane was an Air Bus - but as big a jet as I have seen in a narrow body design - 6 seats across and we were in row 35 with many rows behind us.  I'd guess 275 seats!    Getting luggage in Rome took forever.  The luggage came off in spurts and I was about to go to the lost luggage desk when the woman next to me told me not to worry.  She flies to Rome frequently from Germany and said that they don't usually lose luggage but they are very slow.  She was right!

The price for cabs to Rome is regulagted - 45 Euros.  We  read that an arranged limo is the same price so we had someone waiting for us with a sign - this was great so we did not have to hassle the taxi line after the long day.  Got to our apartment in Rome near the Vatican by 4pm.

The apartment is on the 7th floor with an ancient elevator that goes to the 6th!  The owner grew up in the apartment below where her daughter and husband now live.  Our flat is one floor above - it is smaller but very nice - light, cross ventilation, one bedroom, dining, living room, basic kitchen.  The owner lives in Chester, England with her British husband.  She has been very helpful and easy to deal with on all of the details.

Our neighborhood is near the Vatican - and a few streets from the entrance to the Vatican Museum.  Our street is quiet and without tourist mobs. Being on an inner courtyard, the apartment is very quiet.  50 meters from the door is a grocery store and within a few blocks we have everything from banks to buses to trams to restaurants.  Yesterday we walked around the Piazza Navonna area and were reminded of the chaos that is "tourist" Rome.  We were very happy to return to our quiet neighborhood where it feels like "real" Romans live. 

With jet lag still nipping at our heels, the first day did not start until noon  and that was only because we had tickets for the Borghese Museum from 1 to 3pm.  This museum is not to be missed and due to its size and popularity they only allow a certain number of people in for 2 hours of viewing.  The lines were long even with advance reservations and despite signs telling people that the next available tickets were 4 days away, many people stayed in line and were very disapointed at not getting tickets. Two hours is really not enough time - but we saw most everything if not a little rushed.  The audio guide is excellent. 

Saturday was no different than Friday - slow start - actually a slower start.  Did not leave the flat until 3:30.  Our day was a bus to the Victor Emmanuel Monument, Mussolini's Balcony, the mother church of the Jesuits, the only Gothic Church in Rome built on the ruins of a temple to Minerva, a walk by the Pantheon, and the church to Louis I of France (of course!).  The tourist mobs at the Pantheon were amazing - scores of guides holding up umbrellas guiding their flocks through the square.  Fortunately we have been here before in quiter times so we did not go in. 

We had another wonderful dinner at a wine bar 2 blocks from the apartment recommended by our landlord. 


Bernini Sculpture in front of Church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva
Today was a walk to St. Peter's, standing in line for an hour to get through metal detectors to enter,  hearing but not seeing the Pope speak from his balcony in St. Peter's square (because we were being screened at the time).  But - Marie-Elisabeth got to mass at St. Peter's.  The service we joined was just behind the main alter directly below the Bernini's Dove Window/Sculpture.  On the way back we stopped for gelato and a drink - almost 20 Euros - of course we chose to sit down at a table! 

Tonight it is packing -  tomorrow we are picked up abougt 10am for our trip to Civitavecchia - the port for Rome where we join the Noordam for our two cruises.  The rest of the itinerary is:

  • Livorno (port for Florence) - we've rented a car to drive to Volterra.
  • Monaco
  • Barcelona
  • Tunis - still don't know if they will cancel this stop?
  • Palermo Sicily
  • Rome  - Civitavecchia - we've rented a car to drive around the countryside north of Rome.
  • Alicante, Spain
  • Malaga, Spain
  • Cadiz, Spain  - have a car for exploring some areas inland of Cadiz.  We've stopped her three times before and have been exploring different areas near the City.
  • Island of Madeira - Portugal
  • Fort Lauderdale
With the slow download speeds on the ship, this may be my one and only post!  Stay tuned!












 

Tuesday, May 29, 2012

Yes - Another Cemetery!



I'm still procrastinating on packing - so I'll write up another adventure. Today we finally got around to going across the street to the Cemetery of Montparnasse. This last resting place for Permanent Parisians is in a beautiful park-like setting with many benches for stopping, reading, or enjoying the weather.  Many people were doing that today!  The cemetery is not as old as Pere Lachaise and it does not have as many famous people - but it is worth visiting.  There are many interesting funerary sculptures - several very modern and a few that are outright strange. I'm going to let the pictures do the talking.

I have NO explanation!
Engraved on the fish is - "He makes his choice of anchovies and  he dines on  a sardine."   I have no idea!  
Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir
Sartre and de Beauvoir lived just down the street from our apartment on Blvd. Raspail and frequented the cafes of Montparnasse.  The things on the grave are tokens from admirers.  Why there are used bus and metro tickers, I do not know?  You often find these kinds of things on other graves in Paris.  

A not so famous academic but in an interesting sculpture in his library!
Different!
Poet Charles Beaudalaire
Sculptor Henri Laurens' Grave
Sculpture titled Sorrow




St. Denis



On Memorial Day (U.S.) and Lundi de Pentecôte (Day After Pentecost Holiday in France) we took the metro to the city of St. Denis.  This city is one of the suburbs surrounding Paris that has become a largely immigrant community.  However, St. Denis has a history going back to the 400s.  The reason for our visit was to go to the Basilica of St. Denis - the resting place of many French kings and the birth of the Gothic architectural style (1122).  We had not been in many years and the sunny weather (in the 80s) made it a perfect day to get the full impact of the stained glass windows.


The Church has a tumultuous history - especially around the time of the first French Revolution. The Convention called for destruction of  "those mausoleums which recall the terrifying memory of our kings." The "sans-cullotes" descended on St. Denis and destroyed many of the royal graves, piled bones in limestone to speed their disintegration, and melted down the lead coffins for bullets. Gold and silver, relics, and Joan of Arc's sword were taken to Paris and destroyed. Fortunately, one man, Alexandre Lenoir, was given permission to remove some of the mausoleums to Paris for a new museum of French National Monuments.


With the Restoration of the monarchy, Louis the XVIII repaired the damage but the restorers did a horrible job - putting wigs on Crusaders, for example - making the result more humorous than anything.  But the Basilica got a new roof and the ancient stained glass was put back into the frames. The restoration of the mausoleums caused such an uproar that eventually the well-known Neo-Gothic architect Viollet-le-Duc was called in to make things right.

Henri II and Catherine de Medici
In the crypt of the church there are remains of 4th century construction.  The reason for the importance of the site was the burial of St. Denis - the patron saint of Paris.  He was martyred on a hill in Paris (Mont de Martyr which later became known as Montmartre).  The legend is that he picked up his decapitated head and walked to St. Denis and was buried in a Gallo-Roman cemetery.  Early Christians came to the site to worship.  There is a statue of St. Denis holding his head in a park in Montmartre next to a playground!!!

The earliest king buried in the Basilica is Dagobert who died in the 7th Century. Some of the names of Kings/Royalty were of particular interest to us - Philip II The Bold, Philip IV The Good, Philip V The Tall,  Philip VI, Philip of France, Philip son of Louis VI, etc.  No wonder Grand-Mère approved of the name Philip - she loved royalty!  :)

The Basilica (which only became a Cathedral in 1966) is an interesting and easy trip from Paris.  

Sunday, May 27, 2012

OUR Day!

Sunday Lunch
Forty years - wow - where has the time gone! We were married May 27, 1972 at the North Long Beach Methodist Church.

My maternal grandparents were among the founding member of the church in the 1920s.  My mom grew up in the church and later was the church secretary.   She "traded" some of her pay for time on their pipe organ when she was learning to play.  As a kid I was always fascinated how anyone could play on several manuals with the hands and play the pedalboard with the feet - at the same time changing stops on both!  I'm still in awe of anyone who can do this!

For those at St. Paul's Episcopal in San Diego, there is an interesting connection between my mom's birth church and Mark Trotter, our preacher in residence and the retired minister of First Methodist Church in San Diego.  His father was minister of North Long Beach Methodist Church in the 1930s.  Small world!

Enough of history....what did we do today?  We previously decided that our big celebration was the trip to Paris where we were engaged in 1971.  We already celebrated with Philip and Megan, Linda and Bob Thomas and Peggy Stewart/Tom Scott - the four Powegians.  So today was OUR day!.

We went to Notre Dame for the 10am service which uses Gregorian Music in the liturgy.  Being Pentecost, the church was full - with the usual tourists circling on the outside aisles flashing away with their cameras.

Here I go again with history - but - Marie-Elisabeth sang in a Gregorian Choir in High School and went on a pilgrimage with the choir to Rome as part of a movement to save Gregorian Music in the mass.  This was during Pope Paul VI's time - shortly after the death of Pope John XXIII when Vatican II was completing reforms that modernized the church.  We both love Gregorian Music and are always glad to hear it at Notre Dame.  The setting is just right.

After the service, we went to lunch at Les Fines Gueules - very difficult to translate but "The Gourmets" is one but the combination of words is ironic.  "Gueule" is a slang word for mouth but combined with "fines" (fine) it becomes gourmet.  Finding a restaurant open on Sundays is sometimes a problem in Paris.  I found this one on the Food Blog of David Lebovitz that I follow.  He praised their cooking of meats and fish - commenting that they really know how to sear the food to get the best flavors.  He was right!   The food was great.  We had a carafe of rosé from Provence.  Before you faint - French rosé is dry and is nothing like the cloyingly sweet American rosés.  It is a perfect chilled wine for a warm day - and it was very warm today in Paris!  M.E. started with a pea veloute - a cold soup of fresh peas.  I got a taste and it was fabulous. 


First Course!
I  had burrata, buffalo mozarella, and ham.  It was incredible - simple - but the addition of small pieces of chopped almonds, sea salt, and a pour of olive oil hit the mark.  A trend in Paris is only using a few very fresh ingredients rather than complicated recipes with multiple ingredients.  It works.

We both had Dorade (Sea Bream) with "market" vegetables.  The fish was cooked to perfection.  Les Fines Gueules goes on our list of restaurants to repeat!  Again - simple but everything was very fresh and cooked well.

Perfectly cooked Dorade! 

Reading the Menu was not about understanding French but required powers of deduction to decipher the writing!  
Then it was back to the bus and to the apartment.  We spent the rest of the day doing absolutely NOTHING!!!