Tigre and the Parana Delta

On Monday March 23 we took a day excursion to the city of Tigre (named for the jaguars that were hunted here in the past) and the Delta of the Parana River. This area is so close to Buenos Aires but so far in terms of scenery and surroundings. The Delta of the Parana forms hundreds of small islands and is crisscrossed with tributaries and wetlands. Homes have been built along the waterways usually raised above the flood stage. Every home seemed to have its own dock – we were to learn why later on the trip into the Delta.

The journey started with a taxi ride from the apartment to the Tren de la Costa station at Libertador in Olivos. Although you can take a train from the main station in Buenos Aires and change to the Coastal Train, we decided it would be faster to take the cab. Although it was a long ride, the cost was only $9US so split between two couples it was inexpensive.

The Coastal Train travels through the exclusive neighborhoods of Buenos Aires along the Rio de Plata. The British built most of the railroads in Argentina in the 19th century which were nationalized by Juan Peron in 1948. The Coastal Train is really more like an above-ground subway line – with cars that remind me of the Metro in Paris. There are several interesting stops along the way but we did not have time to enjoy them – maybe next trip.

One of the locals on the boat - no - maybe a tourist?

Restaurante Gato Blanco Dock with a local "bus" on the river.

We read about a restaurant out in the Delta called the Gato Blanco (White Cat) that we wanted to try. Getting to the “Gato” was the best part of the day, requiring traveling by boat with the locals. What a great experience! In 2006, we had taken an excursion boat around the Delta with other tourists. This boat was local transportation for the residents. Some were on their way to or from Tigre with their shopping. Some children got on and were doing their homework as we sailed the river. The only tourists were the few going to the Gato Blanco. The boat stopped along the channels of the river to drop people off and pick up new riders. People would just come out on their dock and the captain seemed to know where people needed to be dropped and where to stop and pick up a new passenger. These “bus” riders had to be nimble – the captain would back the ship up to the dock’s staircase that extended into the water – the rider would then hop on or hop off while the engine raced. Fortunately, the captain gave the “Turistas” more time.

The canals and tributaries were busy with boats – some were floating grocery stores. We noticed items delivered to homes sitting on the docks – a bag of onions, water, fuel, etc. There were a few small shops and gas stations along the way as well as hotels and recreation sites. Many residents sat on their lawns or docks watching the world go by – what a complete contrasts with the hustle and bustle of Buenos Aires! Although there are permanent Delta residents, we understand that many of the homes are for weekends and summer vacations for people from Buenos Aires. Considering the temperatures we have had in their “September,” we understand why the Delta is an attraction in summer.

Those lazy days of river life at Gato Blanco.

When we arrived at the Gato Blanco in about an hour, we were greeted by a….gato blanco! The restaurant was full – how could that be – there were only a few people on the boat? There was a large tour group that had come with their own boats. Fortunately they left shortly after we arrived. We were seated on the patio/deck under an umbrella, facing the river and a side tributary. The food was good – except for the new local “fish” Elisabeth decided to try. It was the first fish she ever disliked – I agree with her – it tasted liked the mud of the river! I rescued her with the chicken from my mixed grill brochette – that was huge!

We left on the 4pm boat that arrived at Gato Blanco at 4:30pm! The ride back to Tigre was another adventure – with a boat that was even more crowded with locals than the one coming out. So – back to the Coastal Train and then by taxi to the apartment. What a great adventure!!!

Back to civilization - or is it?