Vanuatu

Even with the devastation of Cyclone Pam Vanuatu was still smiling

Category 5 Cyclone Pam hit the island nation of Vanuatu in March.  For a long time, we did not think we would stop because the port and capital of Port Vila took the brunt of the storm – pictures after the Cyclone showed considerable damage.  Some cruise ships stopped at the island right after the storm but only to deliver supplies – no passengers were allowed off the ship.  Shortly after we boarded the Oosterdam in Auckland we were told we would be stopping.  The woman from Cruise Critics who organized our tour checked with the tour operator and everything was confirmed.   Even before the storm, we had arranged to visit a school and to take school supplies.  They were even more needed now!

Our day in Vanuatu was amazing.  When we got off the ship, there was a sign that said Welcome to Vanuatu – with the hashtag #vanuatutillsmiling.  The country has been designated the happiest on earth in two recent surveys.  The people are amazing – always smiling, happy, and obviously very resilient.  Our guide and driver – Manu and James were good examples. 

One of our first stops was at a native village down a long and bumpy road.  The tribe showed us how they survived the Cyclone in the traditional way.  There were huge Banyan Trees with natural shelters inside the tendrils that come down from the limbs to the ground.  With three of these trees, the 30₊ people in the village rode out the storm. They explained that for the first few weeks they survived on fruits that had been blown down in the storm.  They also demonstrated the traditional way they prepare and store bananas for drying.  This staple can last for years.   We were welcomed to the village with the traditional ceremony – they also presented dances and fire walking.

Next on our tour was the school where we were taking the supplies.  This took us to a part of the island that was hit more severely by Cyclone Pam.  The road still had sand in places were the ocean surge had crossed the highway.  Many trees were on the ground and many houses had makeshift repairs, including tarps covering the roofs.  The school had survived but sustained some damage.  When we arrived, it was lunch break and all the children came out to greet us.  We presented the supplies to the teacher and were treated to a song by the kids.  Every kid got in a line and walked past us shaking everyone’s hand. Quite an experience!

From here we went to a small hotel for lunch and then on to see a waterfall.  This took us through property of the Catholic Church where they have a school and a Seminary.  This is where we saw the most destruction – huge Banyan Trees had been blown over with their massive root balls on their sides as testimony to the power of the storm.  Our guide explained that these trees were on rocky soil and did not have the stability of the one we had seen in the village. 

The road was diverted in places to avoid the downed trees.   The school showed signs of damage to the buildings but the Seminary was the worst with buildings collapsed.  One was the library with books still strewn about the area.   Students were in the fields tending the crops for the school and others were helping with the clean-up. 

Our ship brought relief supplies to Vanuatu at no cost to the country and Holland America Line has contributed a large sum to the relief efforts.  Passengers were given the opportunity to make contributions to Save the Children (Australian Branch) that is coordinating relief efforts or to the Holland America Foundation.  

Vanuatu is a wonderful country and we pray it will recover quickly. 

New Caledonia –Grande Terre Island (Noumea) and the Island of Lifou

After two days at sea after Sydney, we arrived in Noumea, New Caledonia – an Overseas Department of France.  From reports of various friends, we were expecting hot, humid, and uncomfortable weather.  Pleasantly surprised by nice weather in mid-80s.  We had not planned anything specific. No one from our Cruise Critics group had planned any tours. 

We got tickets for a hop-on-hop-off shuttle in the Cruise Terminal.  Melbourne cruising friends mentioned a good Aquarium with local sea life.  Very glad we stopped to go through the Aquarium – it opened just as we got there so we were among the first visitors of the day.  Tanks were well marked in French and English.  The Aquarium concentrated on local sea life. We saw Nautilus for the first time – not just their empty shells.  An outdoor tank held local sea turtles.  This was a small but well laid out Aquarium.  Spent much more time here than we anticipated. 

From here we walked along the beach and found a small café with great baguette sandwiches – very French! Back on the shuttle to ride around the loop again – stopping at a shopping center where we found a very good bakery/patisserie where we just “had to have” an opera cake.  Back on the bus for a ride back to the downtown where we walked in the main square and found a café with Diabolo Menthe – a favorite drink from France that is great in warm weather – mint syrup with lemon/lime soda.  May sound strange but it is excellent!  This was really Paris in the Pacific! 

The ship left Noumea late for our short sail to the island of Lifou.  This stop was mainly for beach-time and for those who wanted to snorkel.   The small village near the tender stop had many locals selling crafts, food, and clothing under open-air structures and canopies.  Several were selling short shuttle trips on the island.  We took one to the local church, to a traditional hut, and to a viewpoint.  The driver only spoke French – besides his local dialect - so having my translator with me was very handy – and much appreciated by the other people in the van!  After M.E. took a short dip in the ocean, we headed back to the ship – weather was nice.

On to Vanuatu!  

Sydney

I am behind with my stories!  Left Sydney almost a week ago and have not written yet about our time in this beautiful city.  The Oosterdam’s schedule was changed shortly after we booked the cruise, shortening the stay in Sydney by several hours – only 7am to 4pm.  Plus - we needed to be back early, by no later than 3:30, for the second safety drill since new passengers were boarding.  We found out later that the issue was tides.  The new White Bay Passenger Terminal requires ships to go under the Harbor Bridge.  The location is a matter of controversy since there is no real public transportation to White Bay – it is an inconvenient place for a cruise terminal.  Locals find the location absurd! Large ships that cannot get under the bridge continue to dock at Circular Quay – right in the center of old Sydney – The Rocks.

Since our time was short and we were in Sydney on a Sunday, we decided to book a private tour.  Normally in a big city we would explore on our own and possibly take the hop-on-hop-off bus but with the short stay we wanted to see as much as possible without having to figure out things on our own.  The day was great – the predicted rain did not happen! 

Our private guide used a 4 Wheel drive SUV which we shared with another couple from our Cruise Critics Group.  It was worth it.  Although we did not stop many places, we saw all of the main sites and neighborhoods. Our driver John was interesting – with a life story like many in Australia from what we've learned.  He came to Australia as an infant when his parents emigrated from the Netherlands after WWII.  Australia was looking for skilled workers and his parents fit that category – a nurse and a machinist.  Europe was devastated by the war and Australia presented an opportunity for a better life.

John was a civil engineer and worked for the City of Sydney with an office in an historic building in the Rocks area with an amazing view of the Opera House.  He speaks Dutch and English – retired early and started his business of taking tourists to see Sydney, the Blue Mountains, and on long treks to the Outback.  He gave us an interesting running commentary on Sydney/Australia – his experience of working for the City was great for me – some things are the same everywhere. 

The Harbor Bridge and Opera House are such icons for Sydney – we stopped at several places for views and pictures.  When we were standing next to the bridge on Circular Quay also viewing the Opera House, I was surprised how small they both seemed.  Every New Year’s Eve, one of the first things you see on television is fireworks from the bridge and panoramas of the Opera House.  They seem so much bigger on television. 

I probably have this wrong but I recall John telling us that the largest auditorium in the Opera House is for 1,800 people. The story of the construction of the Opera House and all of the technical problems is legendary – arguments with the architect that resulted in him saying he would never come to Sydney or Australia again.  He never saw it completed.  As we left Sydney, we stayed on our balcony and watched the Oosterdam barely make it under the bridge and we both took what seemed like hundreds of photos of the Opera House from every angle. 

The rest of our tour was of the various neighborhoods, bays, beaches of the city.  The Sydney Harbor and surroundings are one of the most beautiful we have seen – on a par with Rio, Hong Kong, and San Francisco – we also love the approach to Stockholm which also reminds us a little of Sydney.  Ferries crisscross the harbor which would be a great way to commute to work!  The famous Bondi Beach is more of a backpacker hangout these days – a little cheap and rundown – not a favorite place for our guide.  After crossing the Harbor Bridge we toured Manly – a place we would like to stay if we return someday with its easy access to Circular Quay by ferry. 

Our stay in Sydney – (New Zealand and Australia) was too short – a land trip is in order…but this “taste” was a great way to decide where to go back. 

Melbourne – A Very Livable City

Our two days in Melbourne were fabulous!  We are so glad we got to stay overnight to see more of this wonderful City.  Fortunately we have cruising friends who live here and another friend from Church in San Diego who lives here part of the year….but no one was in Melbourne at the time of our stop.   However, they left excellent instructions and ideas for our stay.

On Day One – we took the Express Bus to the City Center from the Port.  This was part of the incredible transportation system in Melbourne.  They use a smart card similar to the Navigo in Paris – it works on all forms of transportation – bus, tram, and metro.  We walked a few blocks from the drop off of the bus to the Metro/Rail Station for the suburbs.  From here, it was an hour to the city of Belgrave and a short walk to the station of Puffing Billy – a steam train ride through beautiful hills to Lakeside.  Like New Zealand, the forests are a mixed variety of flora – pines, eucalyptus, tree ferns, semi-tropical plants, and deciduous trees.  The latter were turning various shades of red, gold, green, and yellow since it is the beginning of autumn “Down Under.” 

Puffing Billy spewed soot into the air and onto our skin – we felt pretty gritty by the end!  Most of the cars are open-sided and many passengers sit on the side railing with their legs hanging outside. The train chugs through the countryside near houses and fields.  It crosses small roads with clanging railroad warning bells. Several wooden trestles are used to cross gullies.  There were several stops at small stations.  

The day started out cloudy but soon we had sun, blue sky, and white clouds – a beautiful day in the hills outside Melbourne.  The trip was one hour each way.  When we returned to Belgrave, we had an Aussie “pie” for lunch – one chicken and the other ground beef, bacon, and cheese.  Not bad! 

After our return to the City, we toured St. Paul’s Anglican Cathedral – yes another one!  It is a beautiful church.  This time we took the tram back to the port – a slow and crowded journey since we were returning at rush-hour. 

The next morning we started our regular tour of the City using instructions from our friends.  We started in Federation Square with its modern buildings on the banks of the Yarra River.  The Ian Potter Center was the first stop, a museum of Australian and Aboriginal art.  We only made it to two floors before deciding we needed to move on if we were going to see anything else!  Excellent museum – free – well-displayed art. 

Transportation in the city center is free – they also have a circular tram especially for tourists with stops near the most important sites.  American cities could learn something from the Melbourne example.  If you want people out of their cars, this is a good way to start.  

Our next stop was the Queen Victoria Markets.  What an experience!  We love markets and seek them out in many cities we visit – it gives you a good sense of the lives of the residents.  This market is huge – with everything from meat, fish, fruits, vegetables, cheese, olives, Italian Deli items, clothing, and suitcases…to boomerangs!  It is also one of the cleanest markets we have ever visited.  We had lunch here also. 

Next was a trip to the Block Center on Collins Street – one of the main shopping streets.  The Center was built to be a smaller version of the Arcade Shopping Center in Milan.  Beautiful place.  By now, it had started to rain so we made our way back to the Port bus.  Melbourne deserves more time and we hope to come back.

Today was a “sea day” with many of the passengers disembarking in Sydney in the morning.       

New Zealand to Australia – Hobart, Tasmania

View of Hobart from Mt. Wellington

Our crossing of the Tasman Sea was one of the roughest we have experienced.  Fortunately our record of not getting sea sick holds!  After missing the port of Dunedin and the scenic cruising of Milford Sound, the Captain steered a course to avoid the worst of the storm.  This meant backtracking to the north – past Wellington and between the north and south islands of New Zealand.  This added distance and time to our crossing to Tasmania.  The ship steered a northerly course directly toward the mainland of Australia – for a while we thought we were skipping Tasmania too but then the ship turned quickly south and after three sea days we arrived in Hobart at the south end of the island.

Our arrival in Hobart was greeted by very sunny skies – but cool and crisp.  Putting our feet on land was odd – I kept having the feeling that everything was still moving!  We were able to get off early to go through Australian immigration and customs so we could pick up our rental car as soon as possible.  Our day in the Hobart region was outstanding!  The woman at the car rental agency suggested we drive to Mount Wellington first since the weather was so good.  The mountain looms over Hobart – the views from the top are spectacular.  The long winding road of about 20km goes through various stages of mixed forest of eucalyptus, pines, ferns, and other semi-tropical plants before emerging into a more barren landscape of scrub.  Toward the top there are interesting rock formations that look somewhat like Devil’s Post Pile in California.  At the top, there are walkways and lookout points.  The most spectacular of these includes platforms that hang out over the edge.  Hobart below appears like an unreal city in miniature.  Other valleys and inlets are visible; some were shrouded in fog. 

After returning to Hobart, we headed north to the Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary – a rehabilitation center for native wildlife.  What a fascinating visit!  Docents were available in each area to give explanations.  The first was a woman holding a baby wombat in a large “sock” to mimic the mother’s pouch.  The Tasmanian Devils were in various exhibits….what strange animals.  Many of those at the Sanctuary were orphaned and hand raised.  There is also a large area for “retired” Devils who can live out their lives in peace and quiet. There was a large area with kangaroos roaming in fields that allowed visitors to walk amongst them.  Free food for the kangaroos was available for us to hand feed them.  We also saw a mother with a baby in the pouch - only a foot was sticking out! 

Baby Wombat kept in a giant sock to simulate his mom's pouch

After Bonorong, we headed for the village of Richmond – a very quaint spot with Georgian architecture and a famous stone bridge built in 1826.  We had an excellent lunch in a café on the main street.  After our day’s adventures we headed back to Hobart through vineyards and farms.  After returning the car, we walked back to the ship through downtown Hobart – a very charming place.

Tasmania is beautiful.  We want to go back! 

Richmond, Tasmania

Today was a “sea day” on our way to Melbourne – where we arrive in the morning.  We will overnight and have a second day in the City.  More later….

Christchurch and the Akaroa Peninsula

On Akaroa Peninsula 

Cruise Ships now use the village of Akaroa for visiting Christchurch since the earthquake of 2011.  The former port of Lyttelton, near the epicenter of the 2011 quake, is now only a shipping harbor.  The local guide we used for our group of 10 lives in Lyttelton – she took us there to show us the major impact of the quake on the small hamlet. There were many empty lots and makeshift supports for retaining walls and buildings.

In 2010, a 7.1 quake hit the area but it was 25 miles from Christchurch and was quite deep.  There was no loss of life. Many buildings, especially heritage buildings were damaged and weakened, however.  The 2011 quake was 6.3 but it was only 5 miles from Christchurch and was a shallow quake.  This is the event that caused the most damage in the City and resulted in the loss of 185 lives.   

Ruins of Catholic Cathedral - propped up by Shipping Containers

The Akaroa Peninsula (Banks Peninsula) is a dormant volcano with many inlets and protected harbors.  Akaroa was originally a French settlement and retains many French business and street names.  Even the gas station sign says – “L’Essence!”  No one speaks French in the village anymore but the French “atmosphere” sells to the tourists.  It is a charming place. 

Our day’s tour started with the Peninsula with sweeping views; beautiful hillsides of various shades of green and yellow; bays, inlets, and lakes.  The weather was sunny but with fog on the high hills so we were not able to take the high road for the best views.

We arrived in Christchurch via a tunnel from Lyttelton – it was not damaged in the quake.  Our guide said it was closed for a few days to be checked but the tunnel appeared to have just “moved with the mountain.” 

Christchurch is known as the most English City in New Zealand.  The river through the city is the Avon with a boating house and punters in appropriate attire.  The City was an Anglican “colony” with the first settlers arriving in 1850.  Only the most upstanding need apply for the new colony and only with a recommendation from your vicar could you have assistance with your passage.  The utopian principles did not last long with the ordeals of colonial life.   

Even with the devastation of the earthquake still marring the City, you can see the beauty of Christchurch.  Because of my early days as an urban planner, I was interested in seeing the recovery efforts and to learn about the process of reconstruction.  It appears to be quite slow.  We learned of on-going disputes between property owners and preservationists who want everything rebuilt as it was pre-quake.  The cost, however, is exorbitant and the preservationists have not offered a fiscal plan – at least according to our guide. 

Shipping Containers have been used for Temporary Businesses

One prime example of this on-going dispute is the Anglican Cathedral – its devastation is very sad – it seems to be beyond repair without massive fund raising.  Because it is church property, no assistance is available from the government.  The Diocese wants to demolish the building and to construct a new modern Cathedral.  They are at an impasse with the preservationists.  Our guide – a non-Anglican – was very sympathetic to the Church and expressed her belief that they should be able to use their property the way they saw fit within the fiscal constraints they face. 

Quake damaged Anglican Cathedral

Anglican Transitional Cathedral - The Cardboard Cathedral

We also visited the Transitional Anglican Cathedral – but it may be much more than “transitional” depending on the length of the dispute over a new structure.  I was most interested in seeing this building because it is made of cardboard and shipping containers, designed by an innovative Japanese architect.  Actually it is wooden beams wrapped in laminated cardboard.  Shipping containers are lined along each side and form many side chapels and meeting rooms.  It sounds odd – but it is actually quite beautiful and has become a major tourist stop. 

The Catholic Cathedral is also devastated – in front is a picture of the building in its pre-quake appearance, an eerie reminder of its former beauty.  Shipping containers are stacked against the teetering walls to keep them from falling down.  This method of stabilization is all over Christchurch.  Shipping containers are also being used as temporary businesses and housing.  There is an entire shopping district in the downtown area called ReStart that uses shipping containers painted in every color of the rainbow!  We had lunch from one – a German Wurst Stand. 

Picture of Former Catholic Cathedral with ruins in background

The plans for the new Christchurch will be wonderful with new emphasis on the Avon River with restaurants, esplanades and gardens.  New building codes will hopefully ensure safety in the future.  It has taken a long time and there is a lot more to do – but they seem to have turned the corner.

It was a fascinating day!   

Things Happen……Napier to Picton

Wine Tasting in Hawk's Bay Area - near Napier

Before describing our travels since Tauranga, I’ll give an update on our revised cruise!  After a great day on the Akaroa Peninsula and in Christchurch we returned to the Oosterdam to learn about our revised itinerary.  Due to a major storm in the Tasman Sea, the Captain revised our course and eliminated the port call in Dunedin and the scenic cruising day in Milford Sound.  A storm in the Tasman Sea is predicted to have 9 meter waves.  We reversed our course and sailed between the North and South Islands with a more northerly course to avoid as much of the storm as possible.  Five meter waves will be better than the alternative.  Of course, Elisabeth is happy – the more movement the better.  “Fortunately, neither of us get seasick,” he said hopefully!

We will be in Hobart a day early as well as in Melbourne but we will get an extra day in the latter with an overnight stay.  I am now scrambling to change car reservations in Hobart and trying to plan an extra day in Melbourne.  I have emailed everyone I know who either lives in Melbourne or has been there.  Our cruising friends who live in Melbourne are off cruising too so I hope they get my email! 

Mission Vineyards - Oldest in NZ

Our stop after Tauranga was Napier in Hawkes Bay.  The city was destroyed by an earthquake in 1931 and was rebuilt in the Art Deco style – quite an interesting place.  Shows you what can happen in an era when the mayor could decree the style and approve plans quickly – no pesky public input or environmental reviews!!   The area around Napier is a famous wine region. 

Our tour took us to the vineyards where we visited two – Church Street Vineyards and Mission Vineyards.  The latter was started by priests and is the oldest winery in New Zealand.  This area and the one around Picton (several days later) reminded us a lot of the Napa Valley and Sonoma with similar terrain and climate. In each vineyard, we sampled 5 or 6 of their wines.  New Zealand is famous for Sauvignon Blanc but there are also Riesling, Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Gris wines.  Many of the wines that are traditionally thought of as sweet were pleasantly dry – but with fruity bouquets.  Our final stop was at a Cider and Beer Brewery where we could each sample 6 of their products with our lunch.  There were ciders of every kind – apple, pear, and various mixtures including passion fruit.   Beers ranged from lagers to ales!   This was a very happy day! 

Old St. Paul's Anglican Church Wellington, NZ

Our next stop was in Windy Wellington, the capital of New Zealand.  The city looks a lot like San Francisco with homes on hills overlooking the water.  Chicago was named for its windy politicians – Wellington because there really is wind most of the time.  On our day, it was foggy and drizzling.  We waited until after lunch to venture into the city.  You can easily tell this is a city of rain and fog.  Most of the sidewalks are covered which made walking around easier.  We took the cable car (really more of a funicular) to the botanical gardens where there “would have been” a great view but we just wanted to take the ride which is also used by locals to get to various levels of the City.  Thanks to the ever-helpful and friendly Kiwis we learned the secrets of the bus system and made our way to St Paul’s Anglican Cathedral. 

The new St. Paul’s is a fairly ugly modern structure but the Old St. Paul’s is a wonderful wooden gothic building that is preserved as an historic building.  The building was in danger of demolition because the Diocese could not afford to maintain two cathedrals but The Friends of Old St. Paul’s was able to raise the money to buy and restore the structure.  The church is still consecrated as a place of worship and now makes money by being used for weddings and concerts, as well as through donations.  The Docent was very helpful and showed us around – especially after I mentioned I was a Docent at St. Paul’s in San Diego!  The old organ was run by hydraulics but when the organist forgot to turn off the spigot it flooded the cottages nearby.  He was fired for this and for “singing too loudly!”

Wine Tasting in the Marlborough Region on the South Island 

Our next stop was in Picton the gateway to the Marlborough wine region, probably the most famous wine area of New Zealand.  Our private tour company took the 10 of us to 3 wineries and a chocolate factory.  A chocolate and vineyard stop by 10am is a great way to start the morning!  Our three wineries were Hunters, Spy Valley, and Bleben.  Again, we sampled the same range of wines – this area has many of the same characteristics as Hawks Bay but the bouquets were somewhat different – fruity as well as vegetal.  Lunch was wonderful New Zealand Mussel Chowder at Wairu River Winery.  Another great day!  The Akaroa Peninsula and Christchurch will be saved for the next blog entry!  

Tauranga and the Bay of Plenty

Maori Welcom

A short cruise from Auckland is Tauranga on the Bay of Plenty.  We took a tour today to see the Bay, a Kiwi Farm, and a Maori cultural presentation.  Our guide was a Maori who took us to his home overlooking the Bay of Plenty.  Tauranga and surroundings are a popular area for holiday homes, retirees, and tourists because of the weather.  The climate is Mediterranean – we recognized many of the same plants as San Diego. The view of the Bay from our guide’s home was spectacular.

Captain Cook named the Bay – but not for the reasons imagined.  Earlier he had stopped in a bay to the south but the Maori tribe would not give him any food or water so he continued north.  On this bay, the Maori tribe gave him food and fresh water – so he named it the Bay of Plenty.  The other bay?  He named it the Bay of Poverty…a name it retains today!   A few years ago the area petitioned the government to change the name….DENIED!  Do not mess with Captain Cook!

Our next stop was for morning tea – with tea; scones with cream, and kiwi fruit; and kiwi juice.  A Maori dance and cultural presentation was next – fascinating!  Maori have been in New Zealand for about 1,000 years.  Their origin?  Most say middle Polynesia – our guide, a native Maori, thinks otherwise.  He claims his Maori ancestors were from near Taiwan.  However, many words in Maori are very similar to Hawaiian and the languages of other Pacific Islands.  Our other guides cited the Polynesia connection.  The dances, chants, songs, and cultural explanations were excellent. 

We then toured the kiwi farm with the owner – who has been growing kiwi for about 40 years.  He was a rugby player with the All Blacks in the 1970s.  Kiwis are from China where they are known as Chinese gooseberry.  They grow in a narrow band of land in New Zealand between 100 and 600 meters above sea level.  This is the area with the least number of spring frosts that destroy the flowers.  The farmer/guide uses windmills and helicopters to keep the cold air from settling on the crop when frost is a danger. 

The pollination of the fruit is complicated – the flowers have no nectar so insects and bees are not attracted naturally.  Hives of bees are rented and trucked in.  The bees go to the male plant and then to the female but return to the hive empty handed of nectar.  The farmers then go into the hive and place sugar water in the hive to keep the bees fed so they do not fly off to “greener pastures.”  Kiwis grow on vines that look more like a tall grape vine than a tree. 

Kiwi Grove Owner - Our Tour Guide

Although New Zealand is thought of as a major producer of kiwis, it is not.  One of the world’s largest producers is Italy!  Who knew?  China and the U.S. are also major producers – of course, New Zealand is the highest quality….according to our guide and the farm owner!  One of the reasons he can make this claim is that they use no irrigation, no fertilizers, and no pesticides.  The climate in the area has rain all year round and the government has very strict rules to protect agriculture from outside pests – as evidenced by our plane being fumigated on landing. 

Most of the crop goes to North America on refrigerated ships before they are ripe.  I learned how to pick a good kiwi at the store – probably best to pick one that is hard rather than soft.  Put it is a bag with an apple or banana….or put a small hole in it with a toothpick.  This releases the gas that prompts ripening.  In the natural state when on the vine, kiwi with any bruising or damage to the skin are quickly destroyed since the release of the gas can cause the other kiwi on the vine to ripen too quickly.  Our farmer/guide also quoted many studies that tout the health benefits of kiwi – it seems to cure everything!  You can even buy kiwi in capsule form! 

There are many uses of the word Kiwi here:

Kiwi – a bird

Kiwi – a New Zealander

Kiwi – a fruit. 

Sailaway from Tauranga

It was a fascinating day! 

A Tour of the Harding Sheep and Cattle Farm in Ngaruawahia, New Zealand

Malcolm Harding in the sheep shearing shed

Pam Harding

Malcolm Harding took us on a tour of his 1,000 acres sheep and cattle farm this morning – an incredible experience!  Malcolm’s parents started the farm after WWII.  

We toured the farm in his 4Wheel drive – up and down steep tracks with cows running to get out of the way.  One of the stops was the sheering shed where Malcolm took us through every step of the process.  The sheering “stations” are next to a shoot where the animal is sent after the “haircut.”  Each shearer has a shoot and pen area so that the sheep can be counted since they are paid by the number sheared.  The fleece is then put in a “packer” that pressed the wool into bales. 

Modern sheep management techniques are used.  The same “shoot” that is used to guide the sheep into the shearing shed is also used after the sheep have been with the rams.  They are lined up and a vet is there to do an ultra sound to see if the sheep is pregnant and if there are twins.  Those with twins are separated and put in a pasture that will allow them to eat more with less competition from the rest of the flock. Shearing takes place several times during the year.  The lambs at different times and the sheep twice a year – as I recall.  (There was so much information this morning that I’m not sure I retained it all!) 

The Young Bulls - destined for McDonald's!

The cattle are Holstein but for beef not milk.  Malcolm also raises Friesian Holstein bulls.  After a certain age, they go to another farmer who completes there maturation.  Amazingly, these bulls are slaughtered for meat that is sent to the United States where the leaner beef from the bull is mixed with other beef to reduce the fat content.  When you eat a hamburger at a Fast Food restaurant you are probably eating New Zealand bull beef!  Malcolm’s cattle are free-range and grass fed – no grains or feed which also accounts for the leaner quality of the beef.   We saw the separate paddocks for cattle that were sick.

On the tour we drove up a steep hill for a sweeping view of the surrounding countryside – most of it part of the farm.  Along the way we saw the many turkeys that roam wild as well as goats. 

Pam and Malcolm Harding have been incredible hosts – very helpful with our travel plans – but the tour today was really a highlight! The City “folk” learned a lot! 

Gloria - our other wonderful host!