Christchurch and the Akaroa Peninsula

On Akaroa Peninsula 

Cruise Ships now use the village of Akaroa for visiting Christchurch since the earthquake of 2011.  The former port of Lyttelton, near the epicenter of the 2011 quake, is now only a shipping harbor.  The local guide we used for our group of 10 lives in Lyttelton – she took us there to show us the major impact of the quake on the small hamlet. There were many empty lots and makeshift supports for retaining walls and buildings.

In 2010, a 7.1 quake hit the area but it was 25 miles from Christchurch and was quite deep.  There was no loss of life. Many buildings, especially heritage buildings were damaged and weakened, however.  The 2011 quake was 6.3 but it was only 5 miles from Christchurch and was a shallow quake.  This is the event that caused the most damage in the City and resulted in the loss of 185 lives.   

Ruins of Catholic Cathedral - propped up by Shipping Containers

The Akaroa Peninsula (Banks Peninsula) is a dormant volcano with many inlets and protected harbors.  Akaroa was originally a French settlement and retains many French business and street names.  Even the gas station sign says – “L’Essence!”  No one speaks French in the village anymore but the French “atmosphere” sells to the tourists.  It is a charming place. 

Our day’s tour started with the Peninsula with sweeping views; beautiful hillsides of various shades of green and yellow; bays, inlets, and lakes.  The weather was sunny but with fog on the high hills so we were not able to take the high road for the best views.

We arrived in Christchurch via a tunnel from Lyttelton – it was not damaged in the quake.  Our guide said it was closed for a few days to be checked but the tunnel appeared to have just “moved with the mountain.” 

Christchurch is known as the most English City in New Zealand.  The river through the city is the Avon with a boating house and punters in appropriate attire.  The City was an Anglican “colony” with the first settlers arriving in 1850.  Only the most upstanding need apply for the new colony and only with a recommendation from your vicar could you have assistance with your passage.  The utopian principles did not last long with the ordeals of colonial life.   

Even with the devastation of the earthquake still marring the City, you can see the beauty of Christchurch.  Because of my early days as an urban planner, I was interested in seeing the recovery efforts and to learn about the process of reconstruction.  It appears to be quite slow.  We learned of on-going disputes between property owners and preservationists who want everything rebuilt as it was pre-quake.  The cost, however, is exorbitant and the preservationists have not offered a fiscal plan – at least according to our guide. 

Shipping Containers have been used for Temporary Businesses

One prime example of this on-going dispute is the Anglican Cathedral – its devastation is very sad – it seems to be beyond repair without massive fund raising.  Because it is church property, no assistance is available from the government.  The Diocese wants to demolish the building and to construct a new modern Cathedral.  They are at an impasse with the preservationists.  Our guide – a non-Anglican – was very sympathetic to the Church and expressed her belief that they should be able to use their property the way they saw fit within the fiscal constraints they face. 

Quake damaged Anglican Cathedral

Anglican Transitional Cathedral - The Cardboard Cathedral

We also visited the Transitional Anglican Cathedral – but it may be much more than “transitional” depending on the length of the dispute over a new structure.  I was most interested in seeing this building because it is made of cardboard and shipping containers, designed by an innovative Japanese architect.  Actually it is wooden beams wrapped in laminated cardboard.  Shipping containers are lined along each side and form many side chapels and meeting rooms.  It sounds odd – but it is actually quite beautiful and has become a major tourist stop. 

The Catholic Cathedral is also devastated – in front is a picture of the building in its pre-quake appearance, an eerie reminder of its former beauty.  Shipping containers are stacked against the teetering walls to keep them from falling down.  This method of stabilization is all over Christchurch.  Shipping containers are also being used as temporary businesses and housing.  There is an entire shopping district in the downtown area called ReStart that uses shipping containers painted in every color of the rainbow!  We had lunch from one – a German Wurst Stand. 

Picture of Former Catholic Cathedral with ruins in background

The plans for the new Christchurch will be wonderful with new emphasis on the Avon River with restaurants, esplanades and gardens.  New building codes will hopefully ensure safety in the future.  It has taken a long time and there is a lot more to do – but they seem to have turned the corner.

It was a fascinating day!