Cruise Continued – Naples, Civitavecchia, Livorno, Barcelona, Mallorca, Alicante, Malaga, and Cadiz!

Gentile Pasta Factory near Naples

We are on day two of the crossing from Cadiz, Spain to Ponta Delgada in the Azores.  I am very far behind with the blog!  So many ports…so little time!  The Mediterranean was like “glass” for the first part of the cruise but, we are now experiencing a “rock and roll” crossing to the Azores.  It finally feels like we are on a ship!  It has also been nice to just relax, read, and enjoy on-board activities after the port-intensive first part of the cruise.

Now to catch up!

Naples

This stop was a highlight.  Since we have spent time in the area on a driving trip, we wanted to do something different.  I organized a tour with two other couples from Cruise Critics to see Herculaneum and to visit the city of Gragnano – the pasta making capital of Italy.  Although we saw Herculaneum in a light rain, it did not disappoint.

 Our certified guide was full of information and enthusiasm for the site.  It is much smaller than Pompeii and is better preserved.  The City was not destroyed in the initial eruption like Pompeii but was covered with a pyroclastic flow after the first eruption of Mount Vesuvius.  As a result, there is more intact buildings and streets.  Some of the wall paintings and mosaics are incredibly well preserved.  There are even remnants of wooden beams intact. 

Gragnano is near Naples in the hills south of the City.  It is known as the pasta making capital of Italy.  We visited the family-owned Gentile pasta making factory.  The Barilla factory in northern Italy makes more pasta in one hour than Gentile makes in a year!  Gentile does it the “old-fashioned” way!  They have won many prizes in Italy for their pasta.  Next to the factory is a small shop where they sell their pasta, olive oil, fruit compotes, and tomato products.  In the middle of the shop, they set up a table for the six of us and served us lunch.  Fabulous! 

Civitavecchia

The port for Rome was the end of one cruise and the beginning of another – about half of the passengers stayed on for the second cruise.  Having been to Rome several times and with the long trip to the City, we opted to stay on board and rest.

Livorno

Livorno is the port closest to Florence.  As in the past, we rented a car to explore Tuscany.  The arrangements here are easy – the Europcar agency is in the terminal and we picked up the car and returned it dockside.  The GPS helps a lot!  We looked for something new in the area, having spent time in Tuscany and Umbria in the past.  We opted for Pistoia.  This Tuscan town is near Florence and did not seem to be on the tourist trail.  The Michelin Green Guide gives the town two stars – so since we trust Michelin, we gave it a try and were not disappointed.  It felt like we were some of the few tourists in town on a beautiful day with blue skies and crisp fall temperatures.  The central square was a pedestrian precinct with classic Italian Renaissance and Pre-Renaissance architecture dominating.  The small church of St. Andrea on a side street was fascinating – the pulpit was an incredible display of carving.  We had fun roaming the streets – with a stop for a cappuccino of course!

The next stop was Vinci – the birthplace of Leonardo.  This small village was near Pistoia.  We reached it after taking a winding and picturesque road over the hills separating Pistoia from the valley to the south.  Again, we wandered the streets and ended up at a Museum that reproduced some of the inventions of Leonardo – the models were done by IBM. 

Barcelona

After a day at sea, we arrived in Barcelona.  As usual, we took the Hop-On-Hop-Off bus for a tour around the city.  Always love seeing the Gaudi buildings along the route.  After taking the loop, we stayed on so we could get off near the Gothic Quarter.  The church of Santa Maria del Mar was something we had missed on previous visits to Barcelona.  It is wedged into the narrow warren of streets in the Gothic Quarter not far from the Cathedral.  Very glad we went.  We know that a lot of people do not care for visiting churches and Cathedrals, but we are fascinated with ecclesiastical architecture and the evolution of styles – from Romanesque to Gothic to Renaissance to Modern. 

Next stop was a lunch of tapas – octopus, shrimp, hummus, fried artichoke hearts, etc.  The final stop was the Picasso Museum – excellent audio guide but being a Saturday it was very crowded.  Back on the HOHO and back to the ship!

Palma de Mallorca

We joined another group of four other couples from Cruise Critics for a tour of Mallorca.  It started with a ride up into the hills outside Palma to the picturesque village of Valldemossa.  It was a Sunday and there was a festival in the village so fortunately our guide met us early so we could beat the crowds.  When we left, there was a line of cars several kilometers long trying to get into the small village! 

The streets are narrow and quaint.  It is also the village where Chopin and George Sand retreated when the composer was trying to recuperate from tuberculosis.  The mountain air was refreshing and would have been an improvement from Paris!  One of two saints from Mallorca was born in this village.  We walked by her childhood home.  The other saint who was born on Mallorca was Junipero Sera. 

We returned to Palma to see the magnificent Cathedral.  Because it was a Sunday, the Cathedral was only open for tourist visits from 1 to 2pm.  Having a local guide helps a lot – he timed everything perfectly!  The rose window in the Cathedral is the largest in the world with no stone dividers – only lead to hold the glass in place.  Gaudi also redesigned some of the interior – moving the choir behind the altar and opening the congregation view.  A side chapel had Gaudi’s characteristic fanciful designs.  Not always our “cup of tea” but interesting. 

Alicante 

We had told people this was our first time in Alicante and then we came around a corner into a Plaza in front of city hall and we realized we HAD been to this City before but we cannot remember when? Now – when we get home we have to figure this out!  Again we took the Hop-On-Hop-Off for orientation to the city – the ride up the switchbacks to the fort perched above the city was better than a ride at Disneyland.  The double-decker bus had to back up to make it around some of the hairpin turns!  We got off along the waterfront promenade and made our way to the Valor Shop – one of Spain’s top chocolate makers – for hot chocolate and churros.  Spanish Hot Chocolate is thick and rich – a perfect way to dip the churros! 

Malaga

In Malaga, we roamed the streets, visited the Cathedral (of course) and searched out a café we had read about that had classic hot chocolate and churros – (again – of course).  We just made it – arrived at 1pm and they closed for the day at 1:30pm.  That was close! 

Cadiz

We have been to Cadiz many times and love the old quarter with its narrow streets.  Ships dock next to the old town making it an easy place to wander.  Cadiz seems like a “real city” with residents going about their business despite the tourists.  Love to sit and watch the world go by….with hot chocolate and churros of course!  Cadiz is the first place we had this favorite – thanks to friends Reba and Imre Quastler who introduced us to our addiction when we stopped with them in Cadiz before our first Transatlantic cruise!  J  Our scientific research continues – someone has to do it!

Tomorrow Ponta Delgada – then Horta!  

Cruise – First Five Days – Ephesus, Rhodes, Santorini, Olympia, and a Sea Day

Santorini

This is our first “Sea Day’ on the first leg of the cruise….a day of rest.  We have been fortunate with the weather – no rain and not too hot.  I would not want to be walking around any of these places in summer!  These first four ports were fascinating!

Boarding in Athens went well – at least for us.  We arrived early to the terminal and were one of the first to check in.  Our cabin was ready early and we settled in – so nice to unpack once until Florida.  Our verandah “sticks out” beyond the one above so we have plenty of room for ocean/sea gazing.

Ephesus

We were part of a private tour group arranged through the Cruise Critics’ Roll Call.  The 12 of us met the guide early which gave us a head start on other tours.  Our guide, Hakan, was very good.  He was raised in upstate New York and graduated from Syracuse University.  When he returned to Turkey, he pursued a career in opera but had to stop due to asthma.  He then went to university for certification as a tour guide. 

This is our second time in Ephesus and Turkey.  The first trip was for 3 weeks and included central, southern, and western Turkey.  Our guide then was excellent also.  To be able to guide in historical sites, Turkey requires certification.  The same is true in Greece from what we understand – an excellent requirement.

Hakan was astute in timing our visits. We headed to the House of Mary first and got tickets and entered the small stone structure with no one in line.  By the time we left, the parking lot was full of buses!  The story/legend (?) is that St. John the Evangelist brought Mary to Ephesus and they stayed in this small remote house outside the City.  Christians were not safe in the Roman world at this time and they had to be cautious.  We later saw a fortress on a hill that is accepted as the place where St. Paul was imprisoned in Ephesus.  The last two Popes have “certified” that Mary lived in this house.

Although we had visited Ephesus before, it was about 15 years ago and it was in January.  We were very glad that we repeated.  We were able to see the Terrace Houses that only opened 5 years ago. This cluster of upper class homes have been excavated over many years.  Since they had been covered for centuries, many of the mosaic floors and painted walls were well preserved.  The many, many, many steps were worth the trudge. 

The library is a highlight as well as seeing their sophisticated sewer, heating, and water systems. One of the earliest examples of advertising is in the pavement – with directions and cost for the world’s oldest profession.  The city of 250,000 has only had a small percentage excavated – work continues. 

After the visit to Ephesus, we had lunch at a school for weavers – which was excellent.  The “catch” was a demonstration of silk spinning, weaving, and….of course, a sales pitch for rugs.  Did we succumb?  Of course…..  Same thing happened on the last trip to Turkey!

Rhodes

We had no formal tour planned for Rhodes – decided to start later and to wander on our own.  The ship docked right beside the walls of the old town. The impregnable walls were built by the Knights of the Order of St. John who occupied the town for over 200 years.

The old town is interesting although the tourist shops abound.  We started with a coffee in a shady courtyard near a small entrance through the wall just beyond the famous twin-towers. We then walked up the famous street with houses for the Knights that came to Rhodes on the way to the Crusades.  Each house was for different countries and languages.  We passed the Houses of Spain, France, Provence, Italy, etc.  There were many beautiful courtyards.  Fortunately, there were no tourist shops to spoil the atmosphere.  At the top of the street, we took a look at the courtyard of the Palace of the Grand Masters which is now a museum. 

Wandering back down the hill through the old town, we passed mosques – and many restaurants, sidewalk cafes, and shops selling the usual tourist trinkets.  Overall a good day of just wandering at our own pace.  

Santorini

The island of Thira (Greek) is commonly known as Santorini.  Our guide told us that this is actually Italian for Saint Irene.  Santorini is one of those places that I have seen in pictures so often that there was a danger of the reality not matching the expectation.  NOT THE CASE.  The beauty of the site and the landscape is amazing.  The only problem is that the island is a tourist ZOO!  We were there in off-season and there were still four other ships visiting. With no dock for large ships, tendering is required.  The only way to the top of the former caldera is by cable car, donkey, or walking up the stairs dodging the donkeys and their “leavings.” 

We had another tour arranged by the Roll Call.  The 12 of us met the guide at the top.  From there he took us to various viewpoints in the perched villages along the edge of the former volcano. He knew the best places to stop but the crowds in the villages were beyond belief.  I cannot imagine what it must be like in summer – the high season. We stopped for lunch in a seaside café near the airport and then drove to the highest point on the island to the site of a Greek Orthodox Monastery.  The line for the descent in the cable car was incredible – not sure how everyone made it back to the ship on time!  Santorini can be checked off of the “bucket list,” but I’m not sure I would go back.

Katakolon – Port for Olympia

Today was another tour for the Cruise Critics’ Roll Call.  This one I arranged for a group of 10.  The company I picked is owned by a woman who was on Rick Steves’ TV program about Olympia and is recommended by him.  Over the years we have come to trust Rick Steves’ judgment.  We were not disappointed. 

Our guide, Georgina, was one of the best we have had anywhere.  She was fun, knowledgeable, savvy…and patient with us “tourists.”  We left the ship early to get ahead of the crowds.  We were among the first tours to arrive from the ship.  While other tour guides take you to the stadium first and then “let you loose” on the site on your own, Georgina started with the other parts of the site with full historical background and explanations.  We ended with the Museum that many tours skip.  It was a highlight – many of the sculptures unearthed at the site are here – with some in Athens or other museums around the world.  Georgina was very good at taking us through the museum to see the highlights and to avoid the crowds when possible. 

After Olympia, we went to the home of a Greek family for a home cooked meal. I just have one thing to say - WOW!  Appetizers included moussaka, Greek bruschetta, stuffed grape leaves in a lemon sauce, Tzatziki with beets, traditional Tzatziki, bread, Kalamata olives, wine – and that was to start!  Next came the main course – a kind of pasta that looked like orzo with chicken in tomato sauce.  We finished with a type of Greek fried pastry in honey and a dish that I can only describe as Greek tiramisu.  THEN – our hostess delivered a Greek drink that was like an eau de vie – but not Ouzo?  The meal was served on their terrace with a wonderful view of the valley below.  The owner, a local doctor, also has a large olive grove on the property.

WHAT A DAY!

Now we are resting on our sea day between Greece and Italy.  Tomorrow Naples and another adventure. 

Athens – Continued

Acropolis Museum - Originals of the copies on the Erechtheion adjacent to the Parthenon

We have spent the last three days exploring Athens – catching up on things we missed in 2010. Tonight is dinner with three other couples who are on the cruise.  We leave for the port in the morning and the start of our 26 days on the Zuiderdam.  Although we have enjoyed our time in Athens, the thought of unpacking for good until Florida has its appeal – as well as someone else doing the cooking, cleaning, bed-making, laundry, and “driving.” 

Our second full day in Athens was on Sunday.  Jet lag was still an issue so we did not get a start until about noon.  We walked the short distance to the Acropolis Museum which is just around the corner from the apartment we rented.  The weather was threatening and a museum seemed like a good bet – of course, everyone else had the same idea.  It was also Sunday so many Athenians and their families seemed to also be there.

We started with lunch in the Restaurant that has a stunning view of the Acropolis Hill.  While eating, we watched lightening make its way across the City but it remained dry on the outside terrace in front of us….for a while!  The outside diners’ luck did not hold out.  The heavens opened and we witnessed a downpour of epic proportions.  We have not seen such a rainstorm in a long time. 

The Museum Building itself is one of the stars besides the art from the Acropolis and Parthenon.  The glass and steel building was designed by a Swiss born New York based architect – Bernard Tschumi. The light in the structure is perfect for the displays and even worked on the less than sunny day we were there. 

With the opening of the Museum in 2009, the Greeks hoped to eliminate one of the objections of returning the art work pillaged by Lord Elgin now housed in the British Museum.  So far…no luck.  Reportedly, the British are afraid that other countries will want their stolen art back too!

Displays have thorough explanations in both Greek and English.  There is a well-produced video on the Acropolis Hill and Parthenon that rotates in Greek and English – with subtitles for both.  The sculpture is amazing – too many things to go into detail – Here is the link to the Museum’s collection. 

One of the highlights on the Third Level is a replica of the original frieze that went around the Parthenon – it is in a gallery that wraps around the top floor.  The Museum only has 32 feet of the 525 foot frieze.  Lord Elgin did not steal the ones that were damaged.

The next day was the National Archaeological Museum.  We thoroughly enjoyed this museum. It is considered one of the world’s finest for ancient Greek art.  It traces Greek art from 7000 BC to 500 AD.  Displayed in roughly chronological order, you go through various civilizations from the Minoans to the Roman period.  The displays have excellent English explanations in spacious well-lit rooms. 

Today was the hop on hop off bus.  It had excellent narration but the traffic in Athens is very bad so it took a long time to get anywhere.  We got off early near the Ancient Agora, had lunch, and then wandered through the Plaka.  We are now packing to get ready for joining the Zuiderdam tomorrow for the next leg of the trip.  OPA! 

Athens – The Beginning

Dining/Kitchen of the Apartment

The Living Room area of the apartment

We arrived in Athens late on Friday October 9 after three flights and over 24 hours of elapsed time - Los Angeles to Washington D.C. (Dulles) to Geneva to Athens.  The long day started with a wake up time of 4:30am at the hotel near the airport - to get to LAX for check-in. 

Before I get into the “fun stuff” about Athens, I need to do my usual rant about flying. Our flights were “ok” but flying is such a pain. “Airline food” is an oxymoron.  The boarding process is crazy.  Planes seem to be either freezing or hot.  I keep telling myself that the agony is part of the process of getting to the destination for the “fun stuff.” 

The last leg was on Swiss Air from Geneva – and I have to give them credit.  They are the only example in recent memory of an airline that actually checked the size of carry-ons before boarding.  A year ago we bought new carry-ons to comply with the new restrictions but other airlines just ignore their own rules. People bring on “suitcases” and cram them into the over-head bins slowing the boarding process. On Swiss Air, boarding went very quickly because they checked in the boarding area and had passengers check their bags that did not comply.  Of course, the airlines “nickel and diming” is the cause of the problem.  If a second bag wasn’t so expensive people wouldn’t do this.  End of rant!

The Athens airport is very efficient – contrary to the stereotype of Greece.  The walk to baggage was very short – and no passport control because this was done in Geneva.  The bags were there in just a few minutes after we arrived.  Once out the door we found our name on a sign held by the co-owner of our apartment.  We had arranged with him to meet us – so nice not to have to find a taxi – and he gave us a running commentary on Athens on the drive. He helped get our bags up to the fourth floor apartment in the tiny one-person elevator.  Our arrival was at 5pm (17:00). After showing us the very modern apartment designed by his architect-wife, we collapsed!  

But…we did not want to sleep too early so an exploration of the neighborhood was in order.  We wandered in the wrong direction looking for a market – but found an excellent bakery where we bought dinner and breakfast.  Dinner was a “Greek pie” of flaky pastry and feta cheese with herbs – excellent.  (Are you jealous Philip?)  We made it up to 9pm (21:00).  Weather was warm and humid with rain threatening but not materializing. 

Morning came early for us – not unlike many days after a long flight and jet lag.  We decided to make this first day a “day of rest.”   Lunch was our main meal at a restaurant just a block from the apartment recommended by Rick Steves. His description of it being a “hole in the wall” was apt.  As usual, his recommendation was great! 

To Kati Allo Restaurant near Acropolis Museum and our apartment 

The restaurant, across from the Acropolis Museum, is To Kati Allo.  It is small, no menus, and no atmosphere – just great food.  The owner speaks some English and shows you what they have cooked that morning behind a glass enclosure – or brings out the pot to show you the contents!  Marie-Elisabeth found a dish she remembered from school lunches in Beirut as a student in Fifth grade.  In the pot we saw courgette (zucchini) stuffed with rice, ground lamb and spices in a lemon sauce.  I had a bite of it - delicious.  I opted for the Moussaka – best I have had!  We are going back.  We understand that the dinner menu includes great grilled meats and other Greek specialties.  The prices were inexpensive.

After a trip to a local grocery store, we returned to the apartment – just before the rain started.  For us, it was a treat – actual water falling from the sky!  Wish we could send it to San Diego!   Efi Skarlatou, the co-owner of the apartment, came by to check on a light that was out and to talk to us about Athens and her recommendations.  She is a talented architect – modern in her approach.  We’ve seen examples of her work in a brochure in the apartment.  She studied in Greece but also spent 6 months in Paris – so speaks French.  Efi also studied in New York and worked for an architecture firm in Manhattan before returning to Greece – so her English is also excellent.  She is a delightful and friendly host.

The rest of our day has been resting, reading, and enjoying the rain.  More adventures await! 

The Adventure Begins

Athens to Florida on the Zuiderdam

Leaving for LAX in a few minutes to spend the night before a very early flight to Dulles - Geneva - Athens.  We are staying in an apartment in Athens for five nights before starting the cruise on October 14.  Looking forward to our adventure! Will try to update the blog when I can and will also post some pictures on Facebook.