Athens – The Beginning

Dining/Kitchen of the Apartment

The Living Room area of the apartment

We arrived in Athens late on Friday October 9 after three flights and over 24 hours of elapsed time - Los Angeles to Washington D.C. (Dulles) to Geneva to Athens.  The long day started with a wake up time of 4:30am at the hotel near the airport - to get to LAX for check-in. 

Before I get into the “fun stuff” about Athens, I need to do my usual rant about flying. Our flights were “ok” but flying is such a pain. “Airline food” is an oxymoron.  The boarding process is crazy.  Planes seem to be either freezing or hot.  I keep telling myself that the agony is part of the process of getting to the destination for the “fun stuff.” 

The last leg was on Swiss Air from Geneva – and I have to give them credit.  They are the only example in recent memory of an airline that actually checked the size of carry-ons before boarding.  A year ago we bought new carry-ons to comply with the new restrictions but other airlines just ignore their own rules. People bring on “suitcases” and cram them into the over-head bins slowing the boarding process. On Swiss Air, boarding went very quickly because they checked in the boarding area and had passengers check their bags that did not comply.  Of course, the airlines “nickel and diming” is the cause of the problem.  If a second bag wasn’t so expensive people wouldn’t do this.  End of rant!

The Athens airport is very efficient – contrary to the stereotype of Greece.  The walk to baggage was very short – and no passport control because this was done in Geneva.  The bags were there in just a few minutes after we arrived.  Once out the door we found our name on a sign held by the co-owner of our apartment.  We had arranged with him to meet us – so nice not to have to find a taxi – and he gave us a running commentary on Athens on the drive. He helped get our bags up to the fourth floor apartment in the tiny one-person elevator.  Our arrival was at 5pm (17:00). After showing us the very modern apartment designed by his architect-wife, we collapsed!  

But…we did not want to sleep too early so an exploration of the neighborhood was in order.  We wandered in the wrong direction looking for a market – but found an excellent bakery where we bought dinner and breakfast.  Dinner was a “Greek pie” of flaky pastry and feta cheese with herbs – excellent.  (Are you jealous Philip?)  We made it up to 9pm (21:00).  Weather was warm and humid with rain threatening but not materializing. 

Morning came early for us – not unlike many days after a long flight and jet lag.  We decided to make this first day a “day of rest.”   Lunch was our main meal at a restaurant just a block from the apartment recommended by Rick Steves. His description of it being a “hole in the wall” was apt.  As usual, his recommendation was great! 

To Kati Allo Restaurant near Acropolis Museum and our apartment 

The restaurant, across from the Acropolis Museum, is To Kati Allo.  It is small, no menus, and no atmosphere – just great food.  The owner speaks some English and shows you what they have cooked that morning behind a glass enclosure – or brings out the pot to show you the contents!  Marie-Elisabeth found a dish she remembered from school lunches in Beirut as a student in Fifth grade.  In the pot we saw courgette (zucchini) stuffed with rice, ground lamb and spices in a lemon sauce.  I had a bite of it - delicious.  I opted for the Moussaka – best I have had!  We are going back.  We understand that the dinner menu includes great grilled meats and other Greek specialties.  The prices were inexpensive.

After a trip to a local grocery store, we returned to the apartment – just before the rain started.  For us, it was a treat – actual water falling from the sky!  Wish we could send it to San Diego!   Efi Skarlatou, the co-owner of the apartment, came by to check on a light that was out and to talk to us about Athens and her recommendations.  She is a talented architect – modern in her approach.  We’ve seen examples of her work in a brochure in the apartment.  She studied in Greece but also spent 6 months in Paris – so speaks French.  Efi also studied in New York and worked for an architecture firm in Manhattan before returning to Greece – so her English is also excellent.  She is a delightful and friendly host.

The rest of our day has been resting, reading, and enjoying the rain.  More adventures await!