May 1 - Labor Day - Place des Vosges...and Politics

Place des Vosges on a busy Labor Day

The last few days have been both busy and lazy - a nice mix.

May 1 was Labor Day in France and in most countries except the United States.  Most businesses were closed (except restaurants/cafes) so we took the opportunity to visit the Place des Vosges with Bob and Linda Thomas.

The Place des Vosges is one of our favorite squares in Paris.  It is a favorite spot to people watch, read, people watch, window shop in the art galleries, and - did I mention people watch?

The square was originally Place Royale due to a former castle on the site.  After the French Revolution, everything "royal" was removed - not only the name was changed but the bronze statue of Louis XIII was melted down - a copy is in the square today.  Place des Vosges is named for a province in France that was the first to pay taxes to the new Revolutionary Government.

The square is the first planned square in Paris and the first royal program of city planning in Europe - Henry IV built the square between 1605 and 1612.  What was new for the time was that the King ordered all of the 35 buildings to follow the same design. The square has been the home of many famous people in French history - Victor Hugo's home is in one corner of the square and is now a museum.  Cardinal Richelieu lived here until he built the Palais Royal - reportedly because he got tired of all of the dueling under his window on the Place.

Since we were near the Place de la Bastille, we decided to watch one of the traditional Labor Day marches that was ending in the square.

This year the marches and rallies had a political overtone since the Presidential elections are May 6.  The Bastille was the site for the Socialist rally with a few "Parti Communiste" members thrown in for good measure.  When the march arrived in the square, they circled around the column in the middle - a symbol of different events of the Revolution of 1830 - (also know as the Second French Revolution).   The entire Square is a commemoration of the First Revolution when the Bastille Prison was stormed by the people on July 14, 1789.  As a result of its history, the Place de la Bastille is a traditional place for protests, marches, and political rallies.

Place de la Bastille
Labor Day March

Labor Day 

Politics continued on Wednesday night when we watch the televised debate between Sarkozy and Hollande - three hours of debate - mostly one on one - no sound bite questions from bland moderators.  Actually it was 3 hours of name calling - they obviously don't like each other very much - no pretending otherwise. Realism in French politics?   I still love the fact that there are no ads on television or radio - only news and this is strictly monitored so each candidates gets exactly the same amount of time in "like" time periods.  The election is on Sunday  but all campaigning must end on Friday night!!!  And I thought I was avoiding political rhetoric by coming to France.....!!!

St. Sulpice and Polidor.....

Spring in Luxembourg Gardens

Sunday April 28 was a day of church, organ music, food, and friends! The day started with mass at St. Sulpice, the second largest church in Paris - (Notre Dame is the largest).  We almost didn't leave the flat since it poured with rain in the morning but the weather got better as the day progressed - except for gale force winds at times.

We made our way in the rain to St. Sulpice.  The church was opened in the 17th century and is the second on the site.  One of our reasons for attending was for the 150th anniversary celebration of the "Grand Orgue."  (As the son of a church organist, I can't help but love organ music!)  St. Sulpice's organ is one of the finest in France. More on this later.

St. Sulpice figured prominently in Dan Brown's novel (emphasis intentional) The Da Vinci Code.  So many tourists on a pilgrimage to the places in the novel came to St. Sulpice that the church posted this notice:

(...) Contrary to fanciful allegations in a recent best-selling novel, this [the line in the floor] is not a vestige of a pagan temple. No such temple ever existed in this place. It was never called a « Rose-Line ». It does not coincide with the meridian traced through the middle of the Paris Observatory which serves as a reference for maps where longitudes are measured in degrees East or West of Paris. (...) Please also note that the letters « P » and « S » in the small round windows at both ends of the transept refer to Peter and Sulpice, the patron saints of the church, and not an imaginary « Priory of Sion ».


Not surprisingly Ron Howard was denied permission to film in the church for the movie of The Da Vinci Code.

We met San Diego friends Linda and Bob Thomas after mass and walked to Polidor for lunch.  This restaurant was opened in 1845 and was frequented by Hemingway, Henry James, Victor Hugo, Max Ernst, James Joyce, etc. It is NOT gourmet but lots of character.  You sit at tables with other patrons crowded into the tiny space.  Food is basic but good -you are there for the atmosphere - very "funky" and "Left Bank."  One of the scenes in Midnight in Paris was filmed here when the Owen Wilson's character met Hemingway.  A picture of Woody Allen is taped to the front window of Polidor.  Yes - the restaurant has become a tourist attraction but it is still fun!

Polidor Restaurant

Bob and Linda returned to their apartment and we took a short walk in the Luxembourg Gardens - the tulips were blooming and the horse chestnut trees were starting to flower in both white and pink - alternating sun and white clouds gave the scene an ever-changing perspective.  Since the afternoon organ concert at St. Sulpice was at 4pm, we decided to pass the time at a cafe overlooking the Gardens. The mint with green tea was served in a teapot with the "real stuff" - no tea bags in sight!   A small dog sat at the table behind us - never making a sound.  Humanity walked down the sidewalk in front of us - ah - one of the main reasons I love Paris - the art of living perfected!

The Dog's Life in Paris

The organ concert was amazing - the nave of the church was nearly full and some of the side aisles.  Six prominent French organists, including two from Notre Dame, played selections that started with composers from the 17th century and progressed to the present. Daniel Roth, the principal organist at St. Sulpice since 1985, actually started the commemoration at the mass in the morning with an extended series of compositions for the prelude and postlude. Roth is the latest in a long line of famous principal organists at St. Sulpice that includes Marcel Dupre and Charles-Marie Widor.  The Tocatta (link to listen) from the 5th Symphony of Widor is one of my all time favorites!

Every Sunday at about 11:30 the door to the organ loft opens and you can wind your way up the narrow spiral staircase to the organ loft to meet Daniel Roth and watch him play the massive five register Cavaille-Coll organ constructed in 1862.  We did this two years ago - quite an experience.  The view of the nave from the loft is not bad either!  During the concert, the announcer indicated that they had just finished cleaning ALL 7,000 pipes - they were removed and lined up to be cleaned one at a time!

The concert was memorable and a fitting end to our first Sunday in Paris this trip!

The Journey - First days....

The worst part of the journey is over – the flights were fine – enduring the TSA is one thing but Heathrow is always a nightmare for us when in transit to another airline.   Last time they lost our luggage and it chased us all over Turkey for over a week.  This is where we learned to pack one change of clothes in the carry on!  This trip the luggage made it to our destination with us!

Our apartment this trip is in the Montparnasse area of the 14^th arrondisement – just a short distance from the Blvd. Montparnasse and the famous “literary” hangouts of the Lost Generation.  On our first day we had a late lunch at La Rotonde.  Hemingway once said, “No matter what café in Montparnasse you ask a taxi driver to bring you to from the right bank of the river, they always take you to the Rotonde.”   We managed a seat in the front window to watch the world go by.  The interior is classic – prints of a past client – Modigliani – line the walls.  It’s easy to imagine Hemingway, Fitzgerald, and Stein sitting at the table nearby.   Now we have to try the other cafes! 

Yesterday we had grand plans to start exploring – BUT – we never made it out except for a trip to the farmers’ market in front of our apartment.  There was everything – it stretched for a couple of blocks – vegetables and fruit of every variety,  butchers, fish mongers, cheese shops, bakery goods, spices, olives, international foods, prepared foods, charcuterie, plants, clothes, etc.  We bought a whole chicken that was roasted on a spit at a stand – along with potatoes as well as fruits and vegetables, paté, rillete du porc, boudin noir, champignons à la grecque, baguettes, and chocolate pear cake.  We were set for several days – at least until the next market day on Wednesday! 

 

Since we had the warm chicken and potatoes, we decided to have our main meal at noon.  After we ate, the rain started so it was nap time!  We never made it out again until after a light dinner.  We walked along the Blvd. Montparnasse that was teeming with people out on a Saturday.  The lights of the cafes and shops reflected off the wet pavement giving the whole scene a mystical feeling – a feeling of being in Paris.  Paris under the rain has its own qualities.  Owen Wilson’s character in Midnight in Paris loved walking in the rain – he was right, but I’ll take it after the worst is over!  (P.S. There are even Paris Tours of the Midnight in Paris sites!)

 

After being here a few days, I got to thinking about how you could tell you were in Paris if you were just plopped down here without warning. 

 

You know you are in Paris or France when:

• You see someone wearing a sweatshirt that says “New York City Redskins."
• The supermarkets post the country of origin of fruits and vegetables.
• Cafes and restaurants are not in a rush to get you to move on. 
• Your plate is not taken the minute the last morsel passes your lips.
• Waiters do not bring the check until you ask.
• There is no political advertising on television or the radio.
• Television programs do NOT start on the hour or half-hour.  
• A small black and white dog wanders around the set on the French version of Family Feud
• On game shows the loser kisses the winner on both cheeks.
• Appliances are multi-function – washer/dryer combo; oven/microwave/grill/convection plus   combinations of these functions, etc.  Saving space is the goal..
• 80% of registered voters actually vote.  Last week– 4 out of 5 voted – and this was down from 84% in 2007.  Most countries only dream of this kind of turnout..
• Living in 600 square feet is normal and comfortable.
• Public transportation works!
• Strikes are the norm.
• Eating is more than just sustenance.  It’s a social event.
•  People work to live rather than live to work. 

Vive la Différence!

 

Am  I a Francophile – Guilty!

Paris Encore 2012

Marie-Elisabeth and I leave for Paris tomorrow to celebrate our 40th Anniversary!

We were engaged in Paris in 1971 after a concert at Sainte Chappelle Link to Pictures and History and a walk along the Seine.  I even remember the music that evening - Mozart's Eine Kleine Nachtmusic Listen.  They are even playing this music at Sainte Chappelle this year when we are in Paris!

Sainte Chappelle is a beautiful and historic example of the Rayonnant style of French Gothic - a transition style from High Gothic to the Late Gothic and Flamboyant Gothic styles in France. While High Gothic has a tradition of illumination, Rayonnant takes it to the next level.  The windows and stained glass in Sainte Chapplle are an example of this style transition.  Visiting on a sunny day shows off the style to its best advantage.  Truly amazing!

We are staying in an apartment in the 14th arrondisement - near the Montparnasse Train Station and across the street from the Montparnasse Cemetery.  Information and Video.  We are on Blvd. Edgar Quinet - the street has a lively outdoor market twice a week. Link to Market Site  These local markets are all over Paris and give the City its "collection of villages" reputation.

An interesting coincidence about the location of the apartment is related to Elisabeth's grandfather.  She has been reading his WWI diary. When he was in Paris in 1914, he writes about going to get his uniform cleaned and repaired.  The shop was in the same street as our apartment on Blvd. Edgar Quinet - just a short distance away.

Philip and his girlfriend Megan will be joining us for 10 days as well as other friends.  Bob and Linda Thomas and Peggy Stewart and her husband Tom Scott will be in Paris while we are there.  Bob and Peggy worked for the City of Poway.  I seem to be an honorary former Poway employee - having worked as an interim there twice.

May 27 is a Trifecta!

• French Mothers' Day
• Ascension
• Our 40th! 

Stay tuned for new posts from Paris - 2012.  

Bird Watching - Return to Parc Montsouris

What's Up?

Lake at Parc Montsouris

Paris had no summer according to our family here.  They have made up for it this last week – has been in the 80s.  We only had rain one night this month.  So much for brining sweaters, raincoats, and warm clothes! 

The 80s may not sound like much but heat in Paris is not the same – buses are not air conditioned – or the Metro – and of course I do NOT like heat.  Looks like it is even hot in Normandy where we are heading next.  But – it is predicted to cool down by early next week. 

This is our transportation to the Park - a minibus through the neighborhood.

Today we did errands getting ready to leave on Saturday.  In the afternoon we went back to Parc Montsouris to read in the shade and watch the parade of humanity around the lake.  It was less crowded than our last visit on a Sunday but it was still “kid city!”  So much fun!  We had a great bench by the lake and although we were going to read, we spent a lot of time bird watching – yes – in the middle of Paris.  Thought I would just post the pictures and end this blog post early! 

Montmartre – Place du Tertre – Sacré Cœur

Is Montmartre crowded, touristy, expensive, and a caricature of itself? Yes.  Is it a fun place to go?  ABSOLUTELY!  We go every time we are in Paris.  The Place du Tertre is part Disneyland part history.  The artists that lived here are mostly gone due to high rents and tourists but the "feel" and appeal are evident.

There are several ways to get to the top of the hill.

By walking…

No thanks!

By riding the Montmartrobus (Mini-bus) – a real "E" ride over the cobblestone streets zigzagging up the hill….

By Funicular – (requires a Metro/Bus ticket)….

We usually take the Mini-bus up the hill from Place Pigalle and descend via the Funicular - (the line for coming up is usually a long wait).  The stairs were eliminated as an option years ago! 

You can escape the crowds by wandering the back streets of Montmartre.  One of the last vineyards in Paris is on the hill.  The Windmill of Gallette is on a backstreet – it was painted by Renoir, Van Gogh, and Pissarro.  

Renoir - Moulin Gallette

Due to its height, the hill was once the site of many windmills.  The patron saint of Paris is St. Denis who was martyred on the hill in 250 A.D. by the Romans.  Therefore, it became known as the “Hill (Mount) of the Martyrs” – Montmartre.

From an architectural basis, Basilica Sacré Coeur is one of the most visible buildings in Paris due to its height and its design that many refer to as “like a wedding cake.”  The combination Neo-Byzantine - Neo-Romanesque architecture is a sharp contrast to other buildings in Paris in my view. It was built between 1875 and 1914 – dedicated after WWI.   According to some, the reason for its construction was to give penance for the excesses of the Second Empire.  It is also seen as a monument to the excesses of the Commune of 1871-72 after the Franco-Prussian War.  The construction caused great debate between secularists/socialists on one side and monarchist/devout Catholics on the other.  It was built entirely with private contributions.

Our day on “the hill” started with a bumpy ride on the Montmartrobus and then a stroll around Place du Tertre with swarms of tourists, painters, roaming silhouette artists, and portrait painters.  We bought our obligatory watercolor of a Paris scene for our hallway collection and we ate a crepe in the outdoor café in the middle of the Square.  After a time in Sacré Coeur, we wound our way through the hordes on the steps of the Basilica to the funicular to end our day on the Mount of Martyrs.  

Jacquemart-André Mansion/Museum

Part of the front of the Mansion

This is one of our favorite places to visit in Paris.  It is not an art museum per se although it has a marvelous collection of Italian art, sculpture, mantelpieces, paneling, furniture, etc.  There are also Tiepolo ceilings and frescoes from a Venetian palace. The mansion is a home - an example of an upper class bourgeois residence in Nineteenth century Paris. 

Tiepolo Fresco 

You enter the home of a couple who were inveterate art collectors. You see their art in the context of where they lived their daily lives and entertained on a grand scale.  The upper floor is their private museum where only their best friends were invited.

The architect was the runner-up in the competition for the Paris Opera House  

There are other pluses to Jacquemart-André.  The admission includes an excellent audio guide.  You can either do a quick tour with only general room explanations or you can listen to more detailed descriptions of the life of the couple, information on paintings and artists, or just walk through the home and enjoy the overall ambiance.  For €3 we added descriptions of the special exhibit – well worth the price!  You could download audio guides to your I-Phone or Android for €1 – this is a trend in France.   

The Mansion is also the site of many special exhibits.  We just missed one on the Caillebotte brothers that we would have loved.  Yes - there were brothers!  The lesser known, Martial, was a photographer – who knew? 

We did get to see the new exhibit on Fra Angelico – the 15^th century Italian artist.  Renaissance Italian religious art is not my usual cup of tea – but this was a fascinating exhibit – the first retrospective in a French museum.  Paintings and illustrated manuscripts came from museums and collections from all over Europe.  Several paintings had been restored for this exhibit.  The colors and the use of light were amazing. 

Edouard André and Nélie Jacquemart left their home to the Institute of France which opened the home to the public in 1913.  Edouard was the heir to a large banking family.  He built the mansion in 1875.  Nélie was a well-known portrait artist who first met Edouard when she painted his portrait.

The Mansion/Museum is open 365 days and stays open late some evenings.  It is a good place to remember if you find yourself in Paris on a Holiday.