Is Montmartre crowded, touristy, expensive, and a caricature of
itself? Yes. Is
it a fun place to go? ABSOLUTELY! We go every time we are in Paris. The Place du Tertre is part Disneyland part history. The artists that lived here are mostly gone due to high rents and tourists but the "feel" and appeal are evident.
There are several ways to get to the top of
the hill.
By walking…
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| No thanks! |
By riding the Montmartrobus (Mini-bus) – a real "E" ride over the
cobblestone streets zigzagging up the hill….
By Funicular – (requires a Metro/Bus ticket)….
We usually take the Mini-bus up the hill from Place Pigalle and
descend via the Funicular - (the line for
coming up is usually a long wait). The
stairs were eliminated as an option years ago!
You can escape the crowds by wandering the back streets of
Montmartre. One of the last vineyards in
Paris is on the hill. The Windmill of Gallette
is on a backstreet – it was painted by Renoir, Van Gogh, and Pissarro.
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| Renoir - Moulin Gallette |
Due to its height, the hill was once the site
of many windmills. The patron saint of
Paris is St. Denis who was martyred on the hill in 250 A.D. by the Romans. Therefore, it became known as the “Hill (Mount)
of the Martyrs” – Montmartre.
From an architectural basis, Basilica Sacré Coeur is one of the
most visible buildings in Paris due to its height and its design that many refer
to as “like a wedding cake.” The combination Neo-Byzantine - Neo-Romanesque architecture
is a sharp contrast to other buildings in Paris in my view. It was built
between 1875 and 1914 – dedicated after WWI.
According to some, the reason for its construction was to give penance
for the excesses of the Second Empire.
It is also seen as a monument to the excesses of the Commune of 1871-72
after the Franco-Prussian War. The
construction caused great debate between secularists/socialists on one side and
monarchist/devout Catholics on the other.
It was built entirely with private contributions.
Our day on “the hill” started with a bumpy ride on the
Montmartrobus and then a stroll around Place du Tertre with swarms of tourists,
painters, roaming silhouette artists, and portrait painters. We bought our obligatory watercolor of a
Paris scene for our hallway collection and we ate a crepe in the outdoor café in
the middle of the Square. After a time
in Sacré Coeur, we wound our way through the hordes on the steps of the
Basilica to the funicular to end our day on the Mount of Martyrs.
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