Sunday, November 7, 2010

Delphi to Nafplio

We finally got an early start for once – breakfast was done at 9:30! We arrived at the Museum for Delphi about 10am – we had been warned to come early before the tour buses with day-trippers arrived from Athens. It worked! There were 6 tourists in the Museums with 12 guards!

This Museum was fabulous – well lit with natural light – displays in Greek and English – well-spaced sculptures and displays. However, I have a confession. Although I can visit several cathedrals and many churches in one day, ancient ruins are not a favorite. Many people say, “If you see one Cathedral, you’ve seen them all!” Au contraire – I love to study the architecture – contemplate the stained glass, art, and sculptures, and to sit in peace soaking up the holiness of the setting. I find it very spiritual. No two cathedrals or churches in Europe are alike for me.

I may have been partially cured of my phobia against ruins by the travel writer Rick Steves. He recommended seeing the museum before the actual site to get an idea of what the ruins might have been like in their original context. It helped - especially for Delphi! It is amazing to see the sophistication of the sculptures produced in 400 BC. The most impressive aspect of the carving is the way that clothing is depicted – the draping of the fabrics which seems to be real – the tunics seem to be flowing in the wind. You expect the figures to come to life and walk right past you.

The most impressive part of Delphi – in my view – is the setting in a natural amphitheater - with cypress trees and a backdrop of gray and reddish rock. No wonder it was considered the center of the universe in ancient times. Pilgrims made their way here to seek advice from the prophetess – the Oracle – the earthly mouthpiece of Apollo. The Oracle revealed to us that Sarah Palin will not be elected President – WHEW!

We climbed the stairs – stepped over and around the rocks – and made our way up the switchbacks to the top of the site – or almost the top. We decided that the view of the amphitheater from the stage area was good enough! The ruins are impressive - especiallhy with the backdrop of the natural setting.

We decided to make our way to Napflio on the Peloponnese Peninsula by the long road. We drove along the north shore of the Bay of Corinth through a beautiful – if dry – landscape. Greece is more mountainous than many people realize – we saw beautiful views of the mountains on the Peninsula across the Bay. We took the relatively new suspension bridge linking the mainland to the Peloponnese near the City of Patras. From here we took the infamous two lane motorway along the north shore toward Corinth. We then headed south on a very modern and seemingly new motorway toward our destination of Napflio. More on this charming seaside resort in the next blog!

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