Saturday, November 6, 2010

Meteora – Another Bucket List Site Ticked Off the List!




Ever since I was a kid and saw pictures of Meteora, I wanted to go there! Many people have given me blank stares when I mention Meteora – but when I remind them of the opening scene in James Bond’s 1981 film For Your Eyes Only, they often know what I am talking about.

The area has many monasteries perched on rock pinnacles – in seemingly impossible locations for construction – especially considering they were built in the 14th century. It is almost like monateries being built on top of the spires in the Monument Valley of Arizona.

Originally there were hermits living in the rocks in the area but when the Roman Empire waned and the Turks came to the area, the monks built these monasteries on the pinnacles as protection. Originally access was by removable ladders. There were also baskets that were raised by ropes and winches for both supplies and people. Even today, we saw supplies being lifted via this system.

Today – there are steps carved in the rock for visitors – and I do mean steps and steps and steps. Who needs a Stairmaster in Meteora!

We stayed in a village at the foot of Meteora – Kastraki. Our “hotel” was excellent and only 50 Euros a night with breakfast. It was connected to a Taverna – a traditional type of Greek restaurant. Our balcony gave us a view of the town’s Greek Orthodox Church and the pinnacles in the background. We ate at the Taverna both nights we were here – the owner spoke English well so we had good advice. The first night the place was packed with locals watching an important Greek soccer match between rival Athens teams.

We had traditional Greek fare – saganaki – fried Greek cheese, Greek Salad, souvlaki – grilled kebab, baked Feta, and baklava – of course!

The first day we arrived in the late afternoon and drove the Meteora loop to see the monasteries perched on their impossible pinnacles in the afternoon and evening light. It is an “other worldly sight” – out of a science fiction tale. How could they have built these?


We spent the next day driving the loop road in every direction. We “hiked up” to the Monastery Varlaam in the morning. All of the monasteries have a similar plan – built around a central courtyard. The church designs are also similar – traditional Greek Orthodox – icons, paintings, small windows – Byzantine architecture. The views from the terraces were incredible. We also visited St. Stephen – a monastery currently housing an order of nuns. The nuns were much more organized than Varlaam – a gift shop with VISA!


This was a fabulous day – slow-paced and fascinating. We kept stopping at viewpoints to drink in the landscape. At one point we encountered a large herd of goats crossing the road guarded by 5 sheep dogs with no human in site. One dog stood right in front of our car – staring at us – as if to say, “Stay away from MY goats!” We obeyed and waited for the goats and dogs to scramble up the hill.

Next Delphi!

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