Two More Parks – Parc de Bercy and Luxembourg Gardens

Luxembourg Palace in Luxembourg Gardens

Visiting Paris parks is one of our favorite things to do – as you can tell from this blog.  They are very different in size, age, history, and design.  These two parks are examples of these differences.

Parc de Bercy

A quiet spot in Parc de Bercy

The Parc de Bercy was opened in 1994 in the 12^th arrondissement near the Palais Omnisport de Paris  The Park started out as feudal estate in the 12^th century.  In the 1800s the area became a large wine depot for wines arriving from Burgundy via the Seine.  In fact, the rails that helped transport the wine from the river to the warehouses have been left intact in the Park as well as other features of this era.  The guardhouse, storehouse, and cobbled walkways are also preserved – giving us a step back in time.  There is also a vineyard to add to the atmosphere.  The wine storehouses were abandoned in the 1970s and the area unused for many years until the park was established. 

The vineyard in the Park

Pubic Art

Parc de Bercy is a quiet area with paths and lawns in keeping with the original linear design of the wine depot.  There are orchards, vegetable gardens, benches around flower gardens, places to sit on the grass, etc.  The park has a teaching element – school children tend the vegetable gardens.

We found a bench in the shade to read and watch the world go by.  In contrast to other park visits, this was a quiet place – our parade of humanity more sporadic than a steady stream – far different than the Luxembourg Gardens but just as enjoyable.

Luxembourg Gardens

Those fabulous chairs in the Luxembourg Gardens - and in many other Paris parks

Enjoying the Park on a summer-like day

The Luxembourg Gardens are my favorite space in Paris.  There are so many things going on – so many distinct areas and uses – such a mix of locals, tourists, students, children, parents, grandparents, nannies with their charges – a real mix of humanity.  There are people sitting in the sun, reading, gossiping, feeding the ducks, playing pétanque/tennis/basketball, watching a marionette performance, sailing toy boats on the lake, eating at the outdoor café, etc.  The Gardens are the definition of a multi-use park – something for everyone.

The Park started out as the gardens of the Luxembourg Palace which is now the home of the French Senate.  

The site started out as a Roman camp – then a convent in the 13^th century.  After the assassination of Henry IV in the 17^th century, his widow, Marie de Medici, had the palace built.  It later became a prison during the French Revolution.  It was the headquarters of the Luftwaffe during World War II.  

I just learned something new about Thomas Paine.  He was imprisoned In the Luxembourg Palace after he moved to Paris to be part of the French Revolution.  At first he was given the hero’s welcome and made an honorary citizen – but things turned against him and he was charged with treason.  The reasons are interesting.  Paine was opposed to all forms of capital punishment which was contrary to the actions of the revolutionaries who were sending hundreds to the guillotine.  Paine would not be popular with the Tea Party today or with the State of Georgia!  His new book the Age of Reason suggested that God did not influence people’s actions and that science and rationality would win out over religion and superstition.  These writings eventually turned Americans against him – he was called the anti-Christ and died in poverty in New York.  I must read more about him!

Enough of the sidebar….

Our most recent afternoon at the Luxembourg Gardens was one of our best here.  The sun and blue sky were fabulous.  We found two chairs and moved them to the shade of a boxed palm tree. (The gardens have a greenhouse and plants are moved in and out depending on the season.)  The temperature was in the low to mid-70s.  We were near the large pond so we could see kids feeding the ducks.  Unfortunately, the concession that rents sailboats to kids (and adults) only operates on weekends and Wednesday afternoons when schools are closed.  But – there were a few people with their own boats.  There was the usual parade of people and even a class doing timed foot races around the park.  As usual, I only read part of the time since I was so fascinated with the “scenery” passing in front of my chair.  Another perfect day in the Luxembourg Gardens!

Feeding the ducks

One of many sculptures in the Gardens

Fall Comes to the Luxembourg Gardens