Cruise Continued – Naples, Civitavecchia, Livorno, Barcelona, Mallorca, Alicante, Malaga, and Cadiz!

Gentile Pasta Factory near Naples

We are on day two of the crossing from Cadiz, Spain to Ponta Delgada in the Azores.  I am very far behind with the blog!  So many ports…so little time!  The Mediterranean was like “glass” for the first part of the cruise but, we are now experiencing a “rock and roll” crossing to the Azores.  It finally feels like we are on a ship!  It has also been nice to just relax, read, and enjoy on-board activities after the port-intensive first part of the cruise.

Now to catch up!

Naples

This stop was a highlight.  Since we have spent time in the area on a driving trip, we wanted to do something different.  I organized a tour with two other couples from Cruise Critics to see Herculaneum and to visit the city of Gragnano – the pasta making capital of Italy.  Although we saw Herculaneum in a light rain, it did not disappoint.

 Our certified guide was full of information and enthusiasm for the site.  It is much smaller than Pompeii and is better preserved.  The City was not destroyed in the initial eruption like Pompeii but was covered with a pyroclastic flow after the first eruption of Mount Vesuvius.  As a result, there is more intact buildings and streets.  Some of the wall paintings and mosaics are incredibly well preserved.  There are even remnants of wooden beams intact. 

Gragnano is near Naples in the hills south of the City.  It is known as the pasta making capital of Italy.  We visited the family-owned Gentile pasta making factory.  The Barilla factory in northern Italy makes more pasta in one hour than Gentile makes in a year!  Gentile does it the “old-fashioned” way!  They have won many prizes in Italy for their pasta.  Next to the factory is a small shop where they sell their pasta, olive oil, fruit compotes, and tomato products.  In the middle of the shop, they set up a table for the six of us and served us lunch.  Fabulous! 

Civitavecchia

The port for Rome was the end of one cruise and the beginning of another – about half of the passengers stayed on for the second cruise.  Having been to Rome several times and with the long trip to the City, we opted to stay on board and rest.

Livorno

Livorno is the port closest to Florence.  As in the past, we rented a car to explore Tuscany.  The arrangements here are easy – the Europcar agency is in the terminal and we picked up the car and returned it dockside.  The GPS helps a lot!  We looked for something new in the area, having spent time in Tuscany and Umbria in the past.  We opted for Pistoia.  This Tuscan town is near Florence and did not seem to be on the tourist trail.  The Michelin Green Guide gives the town two stars – so since we trust Michelin, we gave it a try and were not disappointed.  It felt like we were some of the few tourists in town on a beautiful day with blue skies and crisp fall temperatures.  The central square was a pedestrian precinct with classic Italian Renaissance and Pre-Renaissance architecture dominating.  The small church of St. Andrea on a side street was fascinating – the pulpit was an incredible display of carving.  We had fun roaming the streets – with a stop for a cappuccino of course!

The next stop was Vinci – the birthplace of Leonardo.  This small village was near Pistoia.  We reached it after taking a winding and picturesque road over the hills separating Pistoia from the valley to the south.  Again, we wandered the streets and ended up at a Museum that reproduced some of the inventions of Leonardo – the models were done by IBM. 

Barcelona

After a day at sea, we arrived in Barcelona.  As usual, we took the Hop-On-Hop-Off bus for a tour around the city.  Always love seeing the Gaudi buildings along the route.  After taking the loop, we stayed on so we could get off near the Gothic Quarter.  The church of Santa Maria del Mar was something we had missed on previous visits to Barcelona.  It is wedged into the narrow warren of streets in the Gothic Quarter not far from the Cathedral.  Very glad we went.  We know that a lot of people do not care for visiting churches and Cathedrals, but we are fascinated with ecclesiastical architecture and the evolution of styles – from Romanesque to Gothic to Renaissance to Modern. 

Next stop was a lunch of tapas – octopus, shrimp, hummus, fried artichoke hearts, etc.  The final stop was the Picasso Museum – excellent audio guide but being a Saturday it was very crowded.  Back on the HOHO and back to the ship!

Palma de Mallorca

We joined another group of four other couples from Cruise Critics for a tour of Mallorca.  It started with a ride up into the hills outside Palma to the picturesque village of Valldemossa.  It was a Sunday and there was a festival in the village so fortunately our guide met us early so we could beat the crowds.  When we left, there was a line of cars several kilometers long trying to get into the small village! 

The streets are narrow and quaint.  It is also the village where Chopin and George Sand retreated when the composer was trying to recuperate from tuberculosis.  The mountain air was refreshing and would have been an improvement from Paris!  One of two saints from Mallorca was born in this village.  We walked by her childhood home.  The other saint who was born on Mallorca was Junipero Sera. 

We returned to Palma to see the magnificent Cathedral.  Because it was a Sunday, the Cathedral was only open for tourist visits from 1 to 2pm.  Having a local guide helps a lot – he timed everything perfectly!  The rose window in the Cathedral is the largest in the world with no stone dividers – only lead to hold the glass in place.  Gaudi also redesigned some of the interior – moving the choir behind the altar and opening the congregation view.  A side chapel had Gaudi’s characteristic fanciful designs.  Not always our “cup of tea” but interesting. 

Alicante 

We had told people this was our first time in Alicante and then we came around a corner into a Plaza in front of city hall and we realized we HAD been to this City before but we cannot remember when? Now – when we get home we have to figure this out!  Again we took the Hop-On-Hop-Off for orientation to the city – the ride up the switchbacks to the fort perched above the city was better than a ride at Disneyland.  The double-decker bus had to back up to make it around some of the hairpin turns!  We got off along the waterfront promenade and made our way to the Valor Shop – one of Spain’s top chocolate makers – for hot chocolate and churros.  Spanish Hot Chocolate is thick and rich – a perfect way to dip the churros! 

Malaga

In Malaga, we roamed the streets, visited the Cathedral (of course) and searched out a café we had read about that had classic hot chocolate and churros – (again – of course).  We just made it – arrived at 1pm and they closed for the day at 1:30pm.  That was close! 

Cadiz

We have been to Cadiz many times and love the old quarter with its narrow streets.  Ships dock next to the old town making it an easy place to wander.  Cadiz seems like a “real city” with residents going about their business despite the tourists.  Love to sit and watch the world go by….with hot chocolate and churros of course!  Cadiz is the first place we had this favorite – thanks to friends Reba and Imre Quastler who introduced us to our addiction when we stopped with them in Cadiz before our first Transatlantic cruise!  J  Our scientific research continues – someone has to do it!

Tomorrow Ponta Delgada – then Horta!  

Cruise – First Five Days – Ephesus, Rhodes, Santorini, Olympia, and a Sea Day

Santorini

This is our first “Sea Day’ on the first leg of the cruise….a day of rest.  We have been fortunate with the weather – no rain and not too hot.  I would not want to be walking around any of these places in summer!  These first four ports were fascinating!

Boarding in Athens went well – at least for us.  We arrived early to the terminal and were one of the first to check in.  Our cabin was ready early and we settled in – so nice to unpack once until Florida.  Our verandah “sticks out” beyond the one above so we have plenty of room for ocean/sea gazing.

Ephesus

We were part of a private tour group arranged through the Cruise Critics’ Roll Call.  The 12 of us met the guide early which gave us a head start on other tours.  Our guide, Hakan, was very good.  He was raised in upstate New York and graduated from Syracuse University.  When he returned to Turkey, he pursued a career in opera but had to stop due to asthma.  He then went to university for certification as a tour guide. 

This is our second time in Ephesus and Turkey.  The first trip was for 3 weeks and included central, southern, and western Turkey.  Our guide then was excellent also.  To be able to guide in historical sites, Turkey requires certification.  The same is true in Greece from what we understand – an excellent requirement.

Hakan was astute in timing our visits. We headed to the House of Mary first and got tickets and entered the small stone structure with no one in line.  By the time we left, the parking lot was full of buses!  The story/legend (?) is that St. John the Evangelist brought Mary to Ephesus and they stayed in this small remote house outside the City.  Christians were not safe in the Roman world at this time and they had to be cautious.  We later saw a fortress on a hill that is accepted as the place where St. Paul was imprisoned in Ephesus.  The last two Popes have “certified” that Mary lived in this house.

Although we had visited Ephesus before, it was about 15 years ago and it was in January.  We were very glad that we repeated.  We were able to see the Terrace Houses that only opened 5 years ago. This cluster of upper class homes have been excavated over many years.  Since they had been covered for centuries, many of the mosaic floors and painted walls were well preserved.  The many, many, many steps were worth the trudge. 

The library is a highlight as well as seeing their sophisticated sewer, heating, and water systems. One of the earliest examples of advertising is in the pavement – with directions and cost for the world’s oldest profession.  The city of 250,000 has only had a small percentage excavated – work continues. 

After the visit to Ephesus, we had lunch at a school for weavers – which was excellent.  The “catch” was a demonstration of silk spinning, weaving, and….of course, a sales pitch for rugs.  Did we succumb?  Of course…..  Same thing happened on the last trip to Turkey!

Rhodes

We had no formal tour planned for Rhodes – decided to start later and to wander on our own.  The ship docked right beside the walls of the old town. The impregnable walls were built by the Knights of the Order of St. John who occupied the town for over 200 years.

The old town is interesting although the tourist shops abound.  We started with a coffee in a shady courtyard near a small entrance through the wall just beyond the famous twin-towers. We then walked up the famous street with houses for the Knights that came to Rhodes on the way to the Crusades.  Each house was for different countries and languages.  We passed the Houses of Spain, France, Provence, Italy, etc.  There were many beautiful courtyards.  Fortunately, there were no tourist shops to spoil the atmosphere.  At the top of the street, we took a look at the courtyard of the Palace of the Grand Masters which is now a museum. 

Wandering back down the hill through the old town, we passed mosques – and many restaurants, sidewalk cafes, and shops selling the usual tourist trinkets.  Overall a good day of just wandering at our own pace.  

Santorini

The island of Thira (Greek) is commonly known as Santorini.  Our guide told us that this is actually Italian for Saint Irene.  Santorini is one of those places that I have seen in pictures so often that there was a danger of the reality not matching the expectation.  NOT THE CASE.  The beauty of the site and the landscape is amazing.  The only problem is that the island is a tourist ZOO!  We were there in off-season and there were still four other ships visiting. With no dock for large ships, tendering is required.  The only way to the top of the former caldera is by cable car, donkey, or walking up the stairs dodging the donkeys and their “leavings.” 

We had another tour arranged by the Roll Call.  The 12 of us met the guide at the top.  From there he took us to various viewpoints in the perched villages along the edge of the former volcano. He knew the best places to stop but the crowds in the villages were beyond belief.  I cannot imagine what it must be like in summer – the high season. We stopped for lunch in a seaside café near the airport and then drove to the highest point on the island to the site of a Greek Orthodox Monastery.  The line for the descent in the cable car was incredible – not sure how everyone made it back to the ship on time!  Santorini can be checked off of the “bucket list,” but I’m not sure I would go back.

Katakolon – Port for Olympia

Today was another tour for the Cruise Critics’ Roll Call.  This one I arranged for a group of 10.  The company I picked is owned by a woman who was on Rick Steves’ TV program about Olympia and is recommended by him.  Over the years we have come to trust Rick Steves’ judgment.  We were not disappointed. 

Our guide, Georgina, was one of the best we have had anywhere.  She was fun, knowledgeable, savvy…and patient with us “tourists.”  We left the ship early to get ahead of the crowds.  We were among the first tours to arrive from the ship.  While other tour guides take you to the stadium first and then “let you loose” on the site on your own, Georgina started with the other parts of the site with full historical background and explanations.  We ended with the Museum that many tours skip.  It was a highlight – many of the sculptures unearthed at the site are here – with some in Athens or other museums around the world.  Georgina was very good at taking us through the museum to see the highlights and to avoid the crowds when possible. 

After Olympia, we went to the home of a Greek family for a home cooked meal. I just have one thing to say - WOW!  Appetizers included moussaka, Greek bruschetta, stuffed grape leaves in a lemon sauce, Tzatziki with beets, traditional Tzatziki, bread, Kalamata olives, wine – and that was to start!  Next came the main course – a kind of pasta that looked like orzo with chicken in tomato sauce.  We finished with a type of Greek fried pastry in honey and a dish that I can only describe as Greek tiramisu.  THEN – our hostess delivered a Greek drink that was like an eau de vie – but not Ouzo?  The meal was served on their terrace with a wonderful view of the valley below.  The owner, a local doctor, also has a large olive grove on the property.

WHAT A DAY!

Now we are resting on our sea day between Greece and Italy.  Tomorrow Naples and another adventure. 

Athens – Continued

Acropolis Museum - Originals of the copies on the Erechtheion adjacent to the Parthenon

We have spent the last three days exploring Athens – catching up on things we missed in 2010. Tonight is dinner with three other couples who are on the cruise.  We leave for the port in the morning and the start of our 26 days on the Zuiderdam.  Although we have enjoyed our time in Athens, the thought of unpacking for good until Florida has its appeal – as well as someone else doing the cooking, cleaning, bed-making, laundry, and “driving.” 

Our second full day in Athens was on Sunday.  Jet lag was still an issue so we did not get a start until about noon.  We walked the short distance to the Acropolis Museum which is just around the corner from the apartment we rented.  The weather was threatening and a museum seemed like a good bet – of course, everyone else had the same idea.  It was also Sunday so many Athenians and their families seemed to also be there.

We started with lunch in the Restaurant that has a stunning view of the Acropolis Hill.  While eating, we watched lightening make its way across the City but it remained dry on the outside terrace in front of us….for a while!  The outside diners’ luck did not hold out.  The heavens opened and we witnessed a downpour of epic proportions.  We have not seen such a rainstorm in a long time. 

The Museum Building itself is one of the stars besides the art from the Acropolis and Parthenon.  The glass and steel building was designed by a Swiss born New York based architect – Bernard Tschumi. The light in the structure is perfect for the displays and even worked on the less than sunny day we were there. 

With the opening of the Museum in 2009, the Greeks hoped to eliminate one of the objections of returning the art work pillaged by Lord Elgin now housed in the British Museum.  So far…no luck.  Reportedly, the British are afraid that other countries will want their stolen art back too!

Displays have thorough explanations in both Greek and English.  There is a well-produced video on the Acropolis Hill and Parthenon that rotates in Greek and English – with subtitles for both.  The sculpture is amazing – too many things to go into detail – Here is the link to the Museum’s collection. 

One of the highlights on the Third Level is a replica of the original frieze that went around the Parthenon – it is in a gallery that wraps around the top floor.  The Museum only has 32 feet of the 525 foot frieze.  Lord Elgin did not steal the ones that were damaged.

The next day was the National Archaeological Museum.  We thoroughly enjoyed this museum. It is considered one of the world’s finest for ancient Greek art.  It traces Greek art from 7000 BC to 500 AD.  Displayed in roughly chronological order, you go through various civilizations from the Minoans to the Roman period.  The displays have excellent English explanations in spacious well-lit rooms. 

Today was the hop on hop off bus.  It had excellent narration but the traffic in Athens is very bad so it took a long time to get anywhere.  We got off early near the Ancient Agora, had lunch, and then wandered through the Plaka.  We are now packing to get ready for joining the Zuiderdam tomorrow for the next leg of the trip.  OPA! 

Athens – The Beginning

Dining/Kitchen of the Apartment

The Living Room area of the apartment

We arrived in Athens late on Friday October 9 after three flights and over 24 hours of elapsed time - Los Angeles to Washington D.C. (Dulles) to Geneva to Athens.  The long day started with a wake up time of 4:30am at the hotel near the airport - to get to LAX for check-in. 

Before I get into the “fun stuff” about Athens, I need to do my usual rant about flying. Our flights were “ok” but flying is such a pain. “Airline food” is an oxymoron.  The boarding process is crazy.  Planes seem to be either freezing or hot.  I keep telling myself that the agony is part of the process of getting to the destination for the “fun stuff.” 

The last leg was on Swiss Air from Geneva – and I have to give them credit.  They are the only example in recent memory of an airline that actually checked the size of carry-ons before boarding.  A year ago we bought new carry-ons to comply with the new restrictions but other airlines just ignore their own rules. People bring on “suitcases” and cram them into the over-head bins slowing the boarding process. On Swiss Air, boarding went very quickly because they checked in the boarding area and had passengers check their bags that did not comply.  Of course, the airlines “nickel and diming” is the cause of the problem.  If a second bag wasn’t so expensive people wouldn’t do this.  End of rant!

The Athens airport is very efficient – contrary to the stereotype of Greece.  The walk to baggage was very short – and no passport control because this was done in Geneva.  The bags were there in just a few minutes after we arrived.  Once out the door we found our name on a sign held by the co-owner of our apartment.  We had arranged with him to meet us – so nice not to have to find a taxi – and he gave us a running commentary on Athens on the drive. He helped get our bags up to the fourth floor apartment in the tiny one-person elevator.  Our arrival was at 5pm (17:00). After showing us the very modern apartment designed by his architect-wife, we collapsed!  

But…we did not want to sleep too early so an exploration of the neighborhood was in order.  We wandered in the wrong direction looking for a market – but found an excellent bakery where we bought dinner and breakfast.  Dinner was a “Greek pie” of flaky pastry and feta cheese with herbs – excellent.  (Are you jealous Philip?)  We made it up to 9pm (21:00).  Weather was warm and humid with rain threatening but not materializing. 

Morning came early for us – not unlike many days after a long flight and jet lag.  We decided to make this first day a “day of rest.”   Lunch was our main meal at a restaurant just a block from the apartment recommended by Rick Steves. His description of it being a “hole in the wall” was apt.  As usual, his recommendation was great! 

To Kati Allo Restaurant near Acropolis Museum and our apartment 

The restaurant, across from the Acropolis Museum, is To Kati Allo.  It is small, no menus, and no atmosphere – just great food.  The owner speaks some English and shows you what they have cooked that morning behind a glass enclosure – or brings out the pot to show you the contents!  Marie-Elisabeth found a dish she remembered from school lunches in Beirut as a student in Fifth grade.  In the pot we saw courgette (zucchini) stuffed with rice, ground lamb and spices in a lemon sauce.  I had a bite of it - delicious.  I opted for the Moussaka – best I have had!  We are going back.  We understand that the dinner menu includes great grilled meats and other Greek specialties.  The prices were inexpensive.

After a trip to a local grocery store, we returned to the apartment – just before the rain started.  For us, it was a treat – actual water falling from the sky!  Wish we could send it to San Diego!   Efi Skarlatou, the co-owner of the apartment, came by to check on a light that was out and to talk to us about Athens and her recommendations.  She is a talented architect – modern in her approach.  We’ve seen examples of her work in a brochure in the apartment.  She studied in Greece but also spent 6 months in Paris – so speaks French.  Efi also studied in New York and worked for an architecture firm in Manhattan before returning to Greece – so her English is also excellent.  She is a delightful and friendly host.

The rest of our day has been resting, reading, and enjoying the rain.  More adventures await! 

The Adventure Begins

Athens to Florida on the Zuiderdam

Leaving for LAX in a few minutes to spend the night before a very early flight to Dulles - Geneva - Athens.  We are staying in an apartment in Athens for five nights before starting the cruise on October 14.  Looking forward to our adventure! Will try to update the blog when I can and will also post some pictures on Facebook.  

Fiji, American Samoa…and Beyond

Our "greeter" at the Fijian Village

I was SO busy for the 5 sea days from American Samoa to Hawaii that I got nothing done on the blog – so now that we are a day out of Honolulu, it is time to catch up!

We were in Suva, Fiji, the capital, on a Sunday when most everything is closed.  Instead of seeing the city on our own as planned, we joined a tour organized by one of our fellow Cruise Critic members when there was a last minute opening.  Glad we did!

The tour took us by bus about an hour outside the capital to a tribal village to learn about local life, customs, and culture.  Seeing the countryside on the way was beautiful – lush tropical vegetation – small villages – Indian settlements with Hindu Temples and churches on every corner.  Fiji is a multi-cultural society and a deeply religious one.  As the guide said – 'Everyone goes to church on Sunday.”  Along the way we noticed every denomination represented from Assembly of God to Mormon to Baptist to Catholic.   

In the small village we visited there was a Methodist and a Roman Catholic Church.   Our time in the village was scheduled to be between the Methodist and Catholic services.  In the church – as in the homes – there were no seats.  Everyone sits on woven mats.  Now this was going to be interesting for a “bunch of Older American, Canadian, and European tourists!” 

   

We assembled in their “meeting area” – a room that was open to the elements on the sides.  We were led to the area by young men in typical dress carrying large wooden warrior implements – they were the guardians of the village.  Children put a garland of flowers around our necks – something like a lei.  Suddenly the villagers appeared with an assortment of chairs and stools that were “vintage” to say the least…a welcome sight!  All ages of the village were there.  The welcoming ceremony started with a prayer – with everyone making the “sign of the cross” at the end before starting the Kava Ceremony.

Preparing the roasting of Taro

What is kava?  I need to research more when I get home – but - It is a traditional drink in the Pacific that looks less than appetizing, to be frank. Watching them make it is interesting but the outcome looks like dirty water from a ditch.  There is a tradition about how to accept it and how to drink it.  A few representatives from our group agreed to “do the honors.”   Your teeth and tongue go numb and after too many drinks you are very happy we were told!

Kava Ceremony

The children sang for us and then the entire assembled village sang with the unique South Pacific harmonies – what did they sing?  The tune was the old hymn “When the Roll is Called Up Yonder, I’ll Be There!”  Some of us who knew it sang along in English.  (English is spoken in Fiji but there are so many local languages and dialects that a common form of communication is Pidgin English.) 

We then were given a tour of the village to see how they live.  There were demonstrations of various things – scraping coconut meat into a fine powder; wrapping taro roots in banana leaves to put in a pit with warm stones; making baskets: how they open coconuts for drinking; making firecrackers; etc. 

What friendly and open people!  They were very eager to talk to us and to show us their way of life. I ended up in a long conversation with one of the elders of the village who told me about his brother who now lives in Melbourne and was married to a Maori he met while working in New Zealand.  He was so eager to answer all of my questions and he wanted to know about California and San Diego!!!

Their homes were simple with sparse furnishings and amenities but the village was clean and ordered.  I suppose they would be considered poor in terms of income but they are rich in many other ways - the land provides, family ties appear to be strong, etc.  After the tour, they had prepared a meal and refreshments for us of fresh fruits, juices, fish, taro, and various foods mixed with coconut.   

We later learned that we were only the second group to come to the village and that they had been preparing for us for two days.   It was a fascinating day.

We had a sea day between Fiji and American Samoa – in fact we repeated Sunday April 26 - adding back the day we lost crossing the International Date Line going to New Zealand.  American Samoa is a beautiful island but our tour there was limited.  Tourist infrastructure seems sparse and there are fewer places to visit.  It does not appear to be a major tourist destination. 

American Samoa

The next 5 days were “sea” days to Kauai and then Honolulu.  We have just finished our first complete sea day out of 5 on the way to Vancouver.  This trip has been interesting – we have seen a lot of new places and now have a long list of places to return!  The “bucket list” never seems to get shorter!  

Vanuatu

Even with the devastation of Cyclone Pam Vanuatu was still smiling

Category 5 Cyclone Pam hit the island nation of Vanuatu in March.  For a long time, we did not think we would stop because the port and capital of Port Vila took the brunt of the storm – pictures after the Cyclone showed considerable damage.  Some cruise ships stopped at the island right after the storm but only to deliver supplies – no passengers were allowed off the ship.  Shortly after we boarded the Oosterdam in Auckland we were told we would be stopping.  The woman from Cruise Critics who organized our tour checked with the tour operator and everything was confirmed.   Even before the storm, we had arranged to visit a school and to take school supplies.  They were even more needed now!

Our day in Vanuatu was amazing.  When we got off the ship, there was a sign that said Welcome to Vanuatu – with the hashtag #vanuatutillsmiling.  The country has been designated the happiest on earth in two recent surveys.  The people are amazing – always smiling, happy, and obviously very resilient.  Our guide and driver – Manu and James were good examples. 

One of our first stops was at a native village down a long and bumpy road.  The tribe showed us how they survived the Cyclone in the traditional way.  There were huge Banyan Trees with natural shelters inside the tendrils that come down from the limbs to the ground.  With three of these trees, the 30₊ people in the village rode out the storm. They explained that for the first few weeks they survived on fruits that had been blown down in the storm.  They also demonstrated the traditional way they prepare and store bananas for drying.  This staple can last for years.   We were welcomed to the village with the traditional ceremony – they also presented dances and fire walking.

Next on our tour was the school where we were taking the supplies.  This took us to a part of the island that was hit more severely by Cyclone Pam.  The road still had sand in places were the ocean surge had crossed the highway.  Many trees were on the ground and many houses had makeshift repairs, including tarps covering the roofs.  The school had survived but sustained some damage.  When we arrived, it was lunch break and all the children came out to greet us.  We presented the supplies to the teacher and were treated to a song by the kids.  Every kid got in a line and walked past us shaking everyone’s hand. Quite an experience!

From here we went to a small hotel for lunch and then on to see a waterfall.  This took us through property of the Catholic Church where they have a school and a Seminary.  This is where we saw the most destruction – huge Banyan Trees had been blown over with their massive root balls on their sides as testimony to the power of the storm.  Our guide explained that these trees were on rocky soil and did not have the stability of the one we had seen in the village. 

The road was diverted in places to avoid the downed trees.   The school showed signs of damage to the buildings but the Seminary was the worst with buildings collapsed.  One was the library with books still strewn about the area.   Students were in the fields tending the crops for the school and others were helping with the clean-up. 

Our ship brought relief supplies to Vanuatu at no cost to the country and Holland America Line has contributed a large sum to the relief efforts.  Passengers were given the opportunity to make contributions to Save the Children (Australian Branch) that is coordinating relief efforts or to the Holland America Foundation.  

Vanuatu is a wonderful country and we pray it will recover quickly. 

New Caledonia –Grande Terre Island (Noumea) and the Island of Lifou

After two days at sea after Sydney, we arrived in Noumea, New Caledonia – an Overseas Department of France.  From reports of various friends, we were expecting hot, humid, and uncomfortable weather.  Pleasantly surprised by nice weather in mid-80s.  We had not planned anything specific. No one from our Cruise Critics group had planned any tours. 

We got tickets for a hop-on-hop-off shuttle in the Cruise Terminal.  Melbourne cruising friends mentioned a good Aquarium with local sea life.  Very glad we stopped to go through the Aquarium – it opened just as we got there so we were among the first visitors of the day.  Tanks were well marked in French and English.  The Aquarium concentrated on local sea life. We saw Nautilus for the first time – not just their empty shells.  An outdoor tank held local sea turtles.  This was a small but well laid out Aquarium.  Spent much more time here than we anticipated. 

From here we walked along the beach and found a small café with great baguette sandwiches – very French! Back on the shuttle to ride around the loop again – stopping at a shopping center where we found a very good bakery/patisserie where we just “had to have” an opera cake.  Back on the bus for a ride back to the downtown where we walked in the main square and found a café with Diabolo Menthe – a favorite drink from France that is great in warm weather – mint syrup with lemon/lime soda.  May sound strange but it is excellent!  This was really Paris in the Pacific! 

The ship left Noumea late for our short sail to the island of Lifou.  This stop was mainly for beach-time and for those who wanted to snorkel.   The small village near the tender stop had many locals selling crafts, food, and clothing under open-air structures and canopies.  Several were selling short shuttle trips on the island.  We took one to the local church, to a traditional hut, and to a viewpoint.  The driver only spoke French – besides his local dialect - so having my translator with me was very handy – and much appreciated by the other people in the van!  After M.E. took a short dip in the ocean, we headed back to the ship – weather was nice.

On to Vanuatu!  

Sydney

I am behind with my stories!  Left Sydney almost a week ago and have not written yet about our time in this beautiful city.  The Oosterdam’s schedule was changed shortly after we booked the cruise, shortening the stay in Sydney by several hours – only 7am to 4pm.  Plus - we needed to be back early, by no later than 3:30, for the second safety drill since new passengers were boarding.  We found out later that the issue was tides.  The new White Bay Passenger Terminal requires ships to go under the Harbor Bridge.  The location is a matter of controversy since there is no real public transportation to White Bay – it is an inconvenient place for a cruise terminal.  Locals find the location absurd! Large ships that cannot get under the bridge continue to dock at Circular Quay – right in the center of old Sydney – The Rocks.

Since our time was short and we were in Sydney on a Sunday, we decided to book a private tour.  Normally in a big city we would explore on our own and possibly take the hop-on-hop-off bus but with the short stay we wanted to see as much as possible without having to figure out things on our own.  The day was great – the predicted rain did not happen! 

Our private guide used a 4 Wheel drive SUV which we shared with another couple from our Cruise Critics Group.  It was worth it.  Although we did not stop many places, we saw all of the main sites and neighborhoods. Our driver John was interesting – with a life story like many in Australia from what we've learned.  He came to Australia as an infant when his parents emigrated from the Netherlands after WWII.  Australia was looking for skilled workers and his parents fit that category – a nurse and a machinist.  Europe was devastated by the war and Australia presented an opportunity for a better life.

John was a civil engineer and worked for the City of Sydney with an office in an historic building in the Rocks area with an amazing view of the Opera House.  He speaks Dutch and English – retired early and started his business of taking tourists to see Sydney, the Blue Mountains, and on long treks to the Outback.  He gave us an interesting running commentary on Sydney/Australia – his experience of working for the City was great for me – some things are the same everywhere. 

The Harbor Bridge and Opera House are such icons for Sydney – we stopped at several places for views and pictures.  When we were standing next to the bridge on Circular Quay also viewing the Opera House, I was surprised how small they both seemed.  Every New Year’s Eve, one of the first things you see on television is fireworks from the bridge and panoramas of the Opera House.  They seem so much bigger on television. 

I probably have this wrong but I recall John telling us that the largest auditorium in the Opera House is for 1,800 people. The story of the construction of the Opera House and all of the technical problems is legendary – arguments with the architect that resulted in him saying he would never come to Sydney or Australia again.  He never saw it completed.  As we left Sydney, we stayed on our balcony and watched the Oosterdam barely make it under the bridge and we both took what seemed like hundreds of photos of the Opera House from every angle. 

The rest of our tour was of the various neighborhoods, bays, beaches of the city.  The Sydney Harbor and surroundings are one of the most beautiful we have seen – on a par with Rio, Hong Kong, and San Francisco – we also love the approach to Stockholm which also reminds us a little of Sydney.  Ferries crisscross the harbor which would be a great way to commute to work!  The famous Bondi Beach is more of a backpacker hangout these days – a little cheap and rundown – not a favorite place for our guide.  After crossing the Harbor Bridge we toured Manly – a place we would like to stay if we return someday with its easy access to Circular Quay by ferry. 

Our stay in Sydney – (New Zealand and Australia) was too short – a land trip is in order…but this “taste” was a great way to decide where to go back. 

Melbourne – A Very Livable City

Our two days in Melbourne were fabulous!  We are so glad we got to stay overnight to see more of this wonderful City.  Fortunately we have cruising friends who live here and another friend from Church in San Diego who lives here part of the year….but no one was in Melbourne at the time of our stop.   However, they left excellent instructions and ideas for our stay.

On Day One – we took the Express Bus to the City Center from the Port.  This was part of the incredible transportation system in Melbourne.  They use a smart card similar to the Navigo in Paris – it works on all forms of transportation – bus, tram, and metro.  We walked a few blocks from the drop off of the bus to the Metro/Rail Station for the suburbs.  From here, it was an hour to the city of Belgrave and a short walk to the station of Puffing Billy – a steam train ride through beautiful hills to Lakeside.  Like New Zealand, the forests are a mixed variety of flora – pines, eucalyptus, tree ferns, semi-tropical plants, and deciduous trees.  The latter were turning various shades of red, gold, green, and yellow since it is the beginning of autumn “Down Under.” 

Puffing Billy spewed soot into the air and onto our skin – we felt pretty gritty by the end!  Most of the cars are open-sided and many passengers sit on the side railing with their legs hanging outside. The train chugs through the countryside near houses and fields.  It crosses small roads with clanging railroad warning bells. Several wooden trestles are used to cross gullies.  There were several stops at small stations.  

The day started out cloudy but soon we had sun, blue sky, and white clouds – a beautiful day in the hills outside Melbourne.  The trip was one hour each way.  When we returned to Belgrave, we had an Aussie “pie” for lunch – one chicken and the other ground beef, bacon, and cheese.  Not bad! 

After our return to the City, we toured St. Paul’s Anglican Cathedral – yes another one!  It is a beautiful church.  This time we took the tram back to the port – a slow and crowded journey since we were returning at rush-hour. 

The next morning we started our regular tour of the City using instructions from our friends.  We started in Federation Square with its modern buildings on the banks of the Yarra River.  The Ian Potter Center was the first stop, a museum of Australian and Aboriginal art.  We only made it to two floors before deciding we needed to move on if we were going to see anything else!  Excellent museum – free – well-displayed art. 

Transportation in the city center is free – they also have a circular tram especially for tourists with stops near the most important sites.  American cities could learn something from the Melbourne example.  If you want people out of their cars, this is a good way to start.  

Our next stop was the Queen Victoria Markets.  What an experience!  We love markets and seek them out in many cities we visit – it gives you a good sense of the lives of the residents.  This market is huge – with everything from meat, fish, fruits, vegetables, cheese, olives, Italian Deli items, clothing, and suitcases…to boomerangs!  It is also one of the cleanest markets we have ever visited.  We had lunch here also. 

Next was a trip to the Block Center on Collins Street – one of the main shopping streets.  The Center was built to be a smaller version of the Arcade Shopping Center in Milan.  Beautiful place.  By now, it had started to rain so we made our way back to the Port bus.  Melbourne deserves more time and we hope to come back.

Today was a “sea day” with many of the passengers disembarking in Sydney in the morning.       

New Zealand to Australia – Hobart, Tasmania

View of Hobart from Mt. Wellington

Our crossing of the Tasman Sea was one of the roughest we have experienced.  Fortunately our record of not getting sea sick holds!  After missing the port of Dunedin and the scenic cruising of Milford Sound, the Captain steered a course to avoid the worst of the storm.  This meant backtracking to the north – past Wellington and between the north and south islands of New Zealand.  This added distance and time to our crossing to Tasmania.  The ship steered a northerly course directly toward the mainland of Australia – for a while we thought we were skipping Tasmania too but then the ship turned quickly south and after three sea days we arrived in Hobart at the south end of the island.

Our arrival in Hobart was greeted by very sunny skies – but cool and crisp.  Putting our feet on land was odd – I kept having the feeling that everything was still moving!  We were able to get off early to go through Australian immigration and customs so we could pick up our rental car as soon as possible.  Our day in the Hobart region was outstanding!  The woman at the car rental agency suggested we drive to Mount Wellington first since the weather was so good.  The mountain looms over Hobart – the views from the top are spectacular.  The long winding road of about 20km goes through various stages of mixed forest of eucalyptus, pines, ferns, and other semi-tropical plants before emerging into a more barren landscape of scrub.  Toward the top there are interesting rock formations that look somewhat like Devil’s Post Pile in California.  At the top, there are walkways and lookout points.  The most spectacular of these includes platforms that hang out over the edge.  Hobart below appears like an unreal city in miniature.  Other valleys and inlets are visible; some were shrouded in fog. 

After returning to Hobart, we headed north to the Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary – a rehabilitation center for native wildlife.  What a fascinating visit!  Docents were available in each area to give explanations.  The first was a woman holding a baby wombat in a large “sock” to mimic the mother’s pouch.  The Tasmanian Devils were in various exhibits….what strange animals.  Many of those at the Sanctuary were orphaned and hand raised.  There is also a large area for “retired” Devils who can live out their lives in peace and quiet. There was a large area with kangaroos roaming in fields that allowed visitors to walk amongst them.  Free food for the kangaroos was available for us to hand feed them.  We also saw a mother with a baby in the pouch - only a foot was sticking out! 

Baby Wombat kept in a giant sock to simulate his mom's pouch

After Bonorong, we headed for the village of Richmond – a very quaint spot with Georgian architecture and a famous stone bridge built in 1826.  We had an excellent lunch in a café on the main street.  After our day’s adventures we headed back to Hobart through vineyards and farms.  After returning the car, we walked back to the ship through downtown Hobart – a very charming place.

Tasmania is beautiful.  We want to go back! 

Richmond, Tasmania

Today was a “sea day” on our way to Melbourne – where we arrive in the morning.  We will overnight and have a second day in the City.  More later….

Christchurch and the Akaroa Peninsula

On Akaroa Peninsula 

Cruise Ships now use the village of Akaroa for visiting Christchurch since the earthquake of 2011.  The former port of Lyttelton, near the epicenter of the 2011 quake, is now only a shipping harbor.  The local guide we used for our group of 10 lives in Lyttelton – she took us there to show us the major impact of the quake on the small hamlet. There were many empty lots and makeshift supports for retaining walls and buildings.

In 2010, a 7.1 quake hit the area but it was 25 miles from Christchurch and was quite deep.  There was no loss of life. Many buildings, especially heritage buildings were damaged and weakened, however.  The 2011 quake was 6.3 but it was only 5 miles from Christchurch and was a shallow quake.  This is the event that caused the most damage in the City and resulted in the loss of 185 lives.   

Ruins of Catholic Cathedral - propped up by Shipping Containers

The Akaroa Peninsula (Banks Peninsula) is a dormant volcano with many inlets and protected harbors.  Akaroa was originally a French settlement and retains many French business and street names.  Even the gas station sign says – “L’Essence!”  No one speaks French in the village anymore but the French “atmosphere” sells to the tourists.  It is a charming place. 

Our day’s tour started with the Peninsula with sweeping views; beautiful hillsides of various shades of green and yellow; bays, inlets, and lakes.  The weather was sunny but with fog on the high hills so we were not able to take the high road for the best views.

We arrived in Christchurch via a tunnel from Lyttelton – it was not damaged in the quake.  Our guide said it was closed for a few days to be checked but the tunnel appeared to have just “moved with the mountain.” 

Christchurch is known as the most English City in New Zealand.  The river through the city is the Avon with a boating house and punters in appropriate attire.  The City was an Anglican “colony” with the first settlers arriving in 1850.  Only the most upstanding need apply for the new colony and only with a recommendation from your vicar could you have assistance with your passage.  The utopian principles did not last long with the ordeals of colonial life.   

Even with the devastation of the earthquake still marring the City, you can see the beauty of Christchurch.  Because of my early days as an urban planner, I was interested in seeing the recovery efforts and to learn about the process of reconstruction.  It appears to be quite slow.  We learned of on-going disputes between property owners and preservationists who want everything rebuilt as it was pre-quake.  The cost, however, is exorbitant and the preservationists have not offered a fiscal plan – at least according to our guide. 

Shipping Containers have been used for Temporary Businesses

One prime example of this on-going dispute is the Anglican Cathedral – its devastation is very sad – it seems to be beyond repair without massive fund raising.  Because it is church property, no assistance is available from the government.  The Diocese wants to demolish the building and to construct a new modern Cathedral.  They are at an impasse with the preservationists.  Our guide – a non-Anglican – was very sympathetic to the Church and expressed her belief that they should be able to use their property the way they saw fit within the fiscal constraints they face. 

Quake damaged Anglican Cathedral

Anglican Transitional Cathedral - The Cardboard Cathedral

We also visited the Transitional Anglican Cathedral – but it may be much more than “transitional” depending on the length of the dispute over a new structure.  I was most interested in seeing this building because it is made of cardboard and shipping containers, designed by an innovative Japanese architect.  Actually it is wooden beams wrapped in laminated cardboard.  Shipping containers are lined along each side and form many side chapels and meeting rooms.  It sounds odd – but it is actually quite beautiful and has become a major tourist stop. 

The Catholic Cathedral is also devastated – in front is a picture of the building in its pre-quake appearance, an eerie reminder of its former beauty.  Shipping containers are stacked against the teetering walls to keep them from falling down.  This method of stabilization is all over Christchurch.  Shipping containers are also being used as temporary businesses and housing.  There is an entire shopping district in the downtown area called ReStart that uses shipping containers painted in every color of the rainbow!  We had lunch from one – a German Wurst Stand. 

Picture of Former Catholic Cathedral with ruins in background

The plans for the new Christchurch will be wonderful with new emphasis on the Avon River with restaurants, esplanades and gardens.  New building codes will hopefully ensure safety in the future.  It has taken a long time and there is a lot more to do – but they seem to have turned the corner.

It was a fascinating day!   

Things Happen……Napier to Picton

Wine Tasting in Hawk's Bay Area - near Napier

Before describing our travels since Tauranga, I’ll give an update on our revised cruise!  After a great day on the Akaroa Peninsula and in Christchurch we returned to the Oosterdam to learn about our revised itinerary.  Due to a major storm in the Tasman Sea, the Captain revised our course and eliminated the port call in Dunedin and the scenic cruising day in Milford Sound.  A storm in the Tasman Sea is predicted to have 9 meter waves.  We reversed our course and sailed between the North and South Islands with a more northerly course to avoid as much of the storm as possible.  Five meter waves will be better than the alternative.  Of course, Elisabeth is happy – the more movement the better.  “Fortunately, neither of us get seasick,” he said hopefully!

We will be in Hobart a day early as well as in Melbourne but we will get an extra day in the latter with an overnight stay.  I am now scrambling to change car reservations in Hobart and trying to plan an extra day in Melbourne.  I have emailed everyone I know who either lives in Melbourne or has been there.  Our cruising friends who live in Melbourne are off cruising too so I hope they get my email! 

Mission Vineyards - Oldest in NZ

Our stop after Tauranga was Napier in Hawkes Bay.  The city was destroyed by an earthquake in 1931 and was rebuilt in the Art Deco style – quite an interesting place.  Shows you what can happen in an era when the mayor could decree the style and approve plans quickly – no pesky public input or environmental reviews!!   The area around Napier is a famous wine region. 

Our tour took us to the vineyards where we visited two – Church Street Vineyards and Mission Vineyards.  The latter was started by priests and is the oldest winery in New Zealand.  This area and the one around Picton (several days later) reminded us a lot of the Napa Valley and Sonoma with similar terrain and climate. In each vineyard, we sampled 5 or 6 of their wines.  New Zealand is famous for Sauvignon Blanc but there are also Riesling, Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Gris wines.  Many of the wines that are traditionally thought of as sweet were pleasantly dry – but with fruity bouquets.  Our final stop was at a Cider and Beer Brewery where we could each sample 6 of their products with our lunch.  There were ciders of every kind – apple, pear, and various mixtures including passion fruit.   Beers ranged from lagers to ales!   This was a very happy day! 

Old St. Paul's Anglican Church Wellington, NZ

Our next stop was in Windy Wellington, the capital of New Zealand.  The city looks a lot like San Francisco with homes on hills overlooking the water.  Chicago was named for its windy politicians – Wellington because there really is wind most of the time.  On our day, it was foggy and drizzling.  We waited until after lunch to venture into the city.  You can easily tell this is a city of rain and fog.  Most of the sidewalks are covered which made walking around easier.  We took the cable car (really more of a funicular) to the botanical gardens where there “would have been” a great view but we just wanted to take the ride which is also used by locals to get to various levels of the City.  Thanks to the ever-helpful and friendly Kiwis we learned the secrets of the bus system and made our way to St Paul’s Anglican Cathedral. 

The new St. Paul’s is a fairly ugly modern structure but the Old St. Paul’s is a wonderful wooden gothic building that is preserved as an historic building.  The building was in danger of demolition because the Diocese could not afford to maintain two cathedrals but The Friends of Old St. Paul’s was able to raise the money to buy and restore the structure.  The church is still consecrated as a place of worship and now makes money by being used for weddings and concerts, as well as through donations.  The Docent was very helpful and showed us around – especially after I mentioned I was a Docent at St. Paul’s in San Diego!  The old organ was run by hydraulics but when the organist forgot to turn off the spigot it flooded the cottages nearby.  He was fired for this and for “singing too loudly!”

Wine Tasting in the Marlborough Region on the South Island 

Our next stop was in Picton the gateway to the Marlborough wine region, probably the most famous wine area of New Zealand.  Our private tour company took the 10 of us to 3 wineries and a chocolate factory.  A chocolate and vineyard stop by 10am is a great way to start the morning!  Our three wineries were Hunters, Spy Valley, and Bleben.  Again, we sampled the same range of wines – this area has many of the same characteristics as Hawks Bay but the bouquets were somewhat different – fruity as well as vegetal.  Lunch was wonderful New Zealand Mussel Chowder at Wairu River Winery.  Another great day!  The Akaroa Peninsula and Christchurch will be saved for the next blog entry!